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SPRAY fairway fertilizer program

32 posts
  1. Johnson Aaron M
    Johnson Aaron M avatar
    6/30/2015 10:06 PM
    Hey all:
    I have been wondering if it would be possible to fertilize bluegrass fairways all summer long with only a spray program? I am unhappy with my pull behind spreader, and I spend a lot of time on my sprayer anyways. We do a preventative fungicide program biweekly during the summer. We have 25 acres of bluegrass fairways, and being that we are in northern Minnesota, a short growing season. I would like to be able to melt into my sprayer a cost effective fertilizer that would deliver .25 to .5 lb N while giving me some time between apps. I bought some UFLEXX and really like the way it melts down in my sprayer screen. I am doing some test sites on my driving range fairway which hasn't received any fertilizer this season for this reason. I sprayed a test plot with some UFLEXX mixed with some ferrous sulfate. Watered for a few turns before application, then watered for a few turns after application. Started turning dark within the hour after spraying, which I expected. I would really like to get back to basics with the ammonium sulfate and ferrous sulfate with some slow release N as well.

    I had some overlap with a product with iron in it earlier this season with my pull behind spreader, so I have some nice green strips up and down a few fairways that are absolutely driving me nuts. The golfers haven't said anything, but Im sure its what they aren't saying that im afraid of!!!

    does anyone out there do a strictly spray fert program for their fairways????
    thank you all for any advice!!!



  2. Gordon Seliga
    Gordon Seliga avatar
    4 posts
    7/1/2015 6:07 AM
    Hello Aaron,

    I haven't put down a granular on fairways in over 15++ years. I look at it this way... With a granular, you put down the fertilizer and then add the water to put it into solution. With a spray application you dissolve the fertilizer and then apply it. No more misses, overlaps or spilled fertilizer. You have a whole host of nitrogen sources to choose from whether it is readily available or slow release.

    Works for me.



  3. Andy Jorgensen
    Andy Jorgensen avatar
    1 posts
    7/1/2015 6:07 AM
    Why not put out a season long granular product like Duration or Polyon? I would think a 4 or 6 months blend, put out in April or May for you would last you well into the fall.

    We've been doing two 6-month applications wall to wall totaling 4.25#N/m for the past couple of years on our Bermuda fairways. The cost is actually cheaper than doing 3-4 traditional applications. This is on our 12-month growing season.

    There is also some new research out of University of Florida on Iron uptake via granular sources. So far the research shows virtually no uptake of the Iron products, regardless of source. After hearing this last fall, we have yet to put out a granular Iron source and you can't even tell it's missing. We have always, and will continue to, put out a foliar source when spraying fairways with Primo, etc...



  4. Johnson Aaron M
    Johnson Aaron M avatar
    7/1/2015 6:07 AM
    thank you for the replies. I will definitely be looking into the cost comparisons for granular vs liquid



  5. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    7/1/2015 8:07 AM
    I don't use granular anymore. Look into Redox, its more effective and definitely will save you money.

    Steve



  6. Keith Fellenstein
    Keith Fellenstein avatar
    0 posts
    7/1/2015 10:07 AM
    Couple things to remember. With strictly spray program, if your sprayer isn't going out, plants aren't being fed (think early spring and late fall). Its difficult to get more than .25 # N out through sprayer without getting at least some tip burn (or worse). The flip side, if your sprayer is going out anyways, why not include some nutrition? My experience leads me to believe that in most cases, you would want at least some granular applications to give you a good base and then could spray most of your nutrition from late spring to early fall. Uflexx is a good product, but there are very good inhibitors out there that can be added to inexpensive urea.



  7. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    7/1/2015 3:07 PM
    Not true. Use Uflexx and get 30 days worth of N. 1/2 bag of Uflexx equals 1/4lb of N per acre and will keep you green for a month. Jack the rate up if you like because it doesn't burn.

    Steve



  8. Keith Fellenstein
    Keith Fellenstein avatar
    0 posts
    7/2/2015 10:07 AM
    .25 # N/A = .0057 # N/m every 30 days?...talk about spoon feed! Even on my Bent I'll do in the neighborhood of .02# N/m every two weeks.



  9. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    7/2/2015 12:07 PM
    Well, I'm not sure how to answer you except to say that I operate in a pretty extreme environment, High heat, high humidity, high rainfall and this program (Redox + Uflexx) really does work for me and saves me a fair bit of money compared with a granular program. The only time I use any granular is when I put out Ronstar because my Bermuda never goes dormant and I can't spray it.

    I think that there are some things that we as Superintendents need to un learn and trying a different technology from the one we grew up with is difficult.

    I think that you need to spend less time thinking about the rate and start thinking about the efficiency of the product. Of the amount of N that you put out in granular form, how much of that actually ever becomes available or is taken up? I think my method is more efficient.

    Regards,

    Steve



  10. Andy Jorgensen
    Andy Jorgensen avatar
    1 posts
    7/2/2015 1:07 PM
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said:

    I think that you need to spend less time thinking about the rate and start thinking about the efficiency of the product. Of the amount of N that you put out in granular form, how much of that actually ever becomes available or is taken up? I think my method is more efficient.

    Regards,

    Steve



    I would say, with my program at least, that a very high percentage is taken up by the plant. We apply so that the weekly release is around .08-.10#N/m.

    My concern with applying liquid is that the nutrients are in solution in the soil, rather than coated by a barrier(polymer) until release. After heavy rains, wouldn't the nutrients wash through the profile with a liquid feed, especially in sandy soil?



  11. Craig Moore
    Craig Moore avatar
    0 posts
    7/2/2015 2:07 PM
    Aaron,
    You say you have Bluegrass fairways in Northern Minnesota....is that annual or Kentucky Bluegrass?
    Either way My first thought is: why are you on a two week preventative fungicide spray program for your fairways...seems like a lot in the great North.
    My second thought is: if your out there spraying why not add fertility. Urea, Umaxx, Uflexx etc. etc. so many options. No reason to get expensive especially if your out there every two weeks. Cheap Urea would be your best and cheapest option. There is zero reason to go over 0.10#N/M if your applying every two weeks, anymore would just be a waste as it won't be utilized by the plant and will be lost to the environment.

    Good luck



  12. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    7/2/2015 2:07 PM
    Andy Jorgensen said:
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said:

    I think that you need to spend less time thinking about the rate and start thinking about the efficiency of the product. Of the amount of N that you put out in granular form, how much of that actually ever becomes available or is taken up? I think my method is more efficient.

    Regards,

    Steve



    I would say, with my program at least, that a very high percentage is taken up by the plant. We apply so that the weekly release is around .8-.10#N/m.

    My concern with applying liquid is that the nutrients are in solution in the soil, rather than coated by a barrier(polymer) until release. After heavy rains, wouldn't the nutrients wash through the profile with a liquid feed, especially in sandy soil?



    It seems like it would, doesn't it? But the truth on the ground here is that heavy rains don't seem to bother it and rainfalls over 2" every night are common here.

    Regards,

    Steve



  13. Todd Bishop
    Todd Bishop avatar
    1 posts
    7/2/2015 2:07 PM
    Our entire golf club is built on sand, great for drainage but not a great nutrient holder. I switched to completely foliar fertilizing three years ago and I am loving it. I use a combination of U Flexx and ammonium Sulfate and I always include 0-0-60. The greens are on a Redox program and can't say enough good about it. The reason I switched was to have better control over the release of the fertilizer and it has worked out great. No flush growth in the spring when you really don't need extra growth. Since I started adding 0-0- 60 (potassium Carbonate) to the tank all the turf is noticeably stronger and healthier. Rate for 0-0-60 is 5 lbs an acre and at a cost of less than $30 a bag it is a no brainer. For the rough we use two Air Injected "Nozzelators". If you never heard of them Google it, they are impressive with great coverage. Two wide throw nozzels with a effective coverage of 25 feet per nozzle. It makes fertilizing rough and big areas very efficient. We get about 4-6 weeks out of an application of Uflexx, 5 lbs an acre and 0-0-60, 5 lbs an acre for the rough.



  14. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    7/2/2015 6:07 PM
    Yeah 0-0-60 is the way to go and Uflexx is .60 a lb.

    Steve



  15. David Brandenburg
    David Brandenburg avatar
    3 posts
    7/3/2015 5:07 AM
    We use a 1# N granular application in the spring of Uflex in the spring and then spray every two to three weeks with Urea, Dispatch and if needed a fungicide. We switched from melting Uflex and UMax to urea based on university research showing no difference in quality or length of color when melted. Two months into it I would agree but it is early.

    If you are spraying anyway get some urea and play with it. It is easy to increase or decrease the rate.

    Why did you wet the turf before your application? At .2# I do not water immediately after the application with no tip burn, I just water that night.



  16. Larry Allan
    Larry Allan avatar
    0 posts
    7/3/2015 10:07 AM
    David Brandenburg, CGCS said: We use a 1# N granular application in the spring of Uflex in the spring and then spray every two to three weeks with Urea, Dispatch and if needed a fungicide. We switched from melting Uflex and UMax to urea based on university research showing no difference in quality or length of color when melted. Two months into it I would agree but it is early.

    If you are spraying anyway get some urea and play with it. It is easy to increase or decrease the rate.

    Why did you wet the turf before your application? At .2# I do not water immediately after the application with no tip burn, I just water that night.

    David and I must have listened to the same seminar. I just use straight urea in the tank. Umax only works on open ground in granular form. I don't understand the reasoning but that is what the research showed. I've put upwards of 1/3 of # N out in 1 gallon/m without any sign of burn, watered in at night. poa bent at .350



  17. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    7/3/2015 3:07 PM
    [
    David and I must have listened to the same seminar. I just use straight urea in the tank. Umax only works on open ground in granular form. I don't understand the reasoning but that is what the research showed. I've put upwards of 1/3 of # N out in 1 gallon/m without any sign of burn, watered in at night. poa bent at .350

    I saw that seminar too and the presenter was wrong. Umaxx does not become molecularly detached by putting it into solution. If that was true, it wouldn't work as a granular, either once the water hit it.

    Steve



  18. Larry Allan
    Larry Allan avatar
    0 posts
    7/4/2015 4:07 AM
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said: [
    David and I must have listened to the same seminar. I just use straight urea in the tank. Umax only works on open ground in granular form. I don't understand the reasoning but that is what the research showed. I've put upwards of 1/3 of # N out in 1 gallon/m without any sign of burn, watered in at night. poa bent at .350


    I saw that seminar too and the presenter was wrong. Umaxx does not become molecularly detached by putting it into solution. If that was true, it wouldn't work as a granular, either once the water hit it.

    Steve

    Sir. I don't get it either but that's what the guy said, and he a sheet of numbers followed by a,b, and c's . The guy also had letters after his name.



  19. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    7/4/2015 4:07 AM
    Larry Allan said:
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said: [
    David and I must have listened to the same seminar. I just use straight urea in the tank. Umax only works on open ground in granular form. I don't understand the reasoning but that is what the research showed. I've put upwards of 1/3 of # N out in 1 gallon/m without any sign of burn, watered in at night. poa bent at .350


    I saw that seminar too and the presenter was wrong. Umaxx does not become molecularly detached by putting it into solution. If that was true, it wouldn't work as a granular, either once the water hit it.

    Steve


    Sir. I don't get it either but that's what the guy said, and he a sheet of numbers followed by a,b, and c's . The guy also had letters after his name.

    That's one of the things we need to unlearn.



  20. Larry Allan
    Larry Allan avatar
    0 posts
    7/4/2015 7:07 AM
    We shouldn't unlearn science. The planet is not 6000 years old. Show me some peer reviewed research on your "belief system" and I will accept it. Until then, the only research I have seen says it doesn't work any better than urea. Are you becoming a Mormon as well?



  21. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    7/4/2015 10:07 AM
    You heard it from one guy who really wasn't sure and had done no research on it.



  22. Melvin Waldron
    Melvin Waldron avatar
    43 posts
    7/4/2015 12:07 PM
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said:
    Larry Allan said:
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said: [
    David and I must have listened to the same seminar. I just use straight urea in the tank. Umax only works on open ground in granular form. I don't understand the reasoning but that is what the research showed. I've put upwards of 1/3 of # N out in 1 gallon/m without any sign of burn, watered in at night. poa bent at .350


    I saw that seminar too and the presenter was wrong. Umaxx does not become molecularly detached by putting it into solution. If that was true, it wouldn't work as a granular, either once the water hit it.

    Steve


    Sir. I don't get it either but that's what the guy said, and he a sheet of numbers followed by a,b, and c's . The guy also had letters after his name.


    That's one of the things we need to unlearn.

    What do we have to unlearn? Don't listen to a guy with letters after their name?

    Let's be careful here, I see a discussion of Republican presidential candidates and their issues with science breaking out here.

    Mel

    Melvin H. Waldron III, CGCS, Horton Smith Golf Course, City of Springfield/Greene County MO

  23. Larry Allan
    Larry Allan avatar
    0 posts
    7/4/2015 1:07 PM
    Melvin Waldron, CGCS said:
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said:
    Larry Allan said:
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said: [
    David and I must have listened to the same seminar. I just use straight urea in the tank. Umax only works on open ground in granular form. I don't understand the reasoning but that is what the research showed. I've put upwards of 1/3 of # N out in 1 gallon/m without any sign of burn, watered in at night. poa bent at .350


    I saw that seminar too and the presenter was wrong. Umaxx does not become molecularly detached by putting it into solution. If that was true, it wouldn't work as a granular, either once the water hit it.

    Steve


    Sir. I don't get it either but that's what the guy said, and he a sheet of numbers followed by a,b, and c's . The guy also had letters after his name.


    That's one of the things we need to unlearn.


    What do we have to unlearn? Don't listen to a guy with letters after their name?

    Let's be careful here, I see a discussion of Republican presidential candidates and their issues with science breaking out here.

    You guys both have letters after your names! I'm not listening



  24. Larry Allan
    Larry Allan avatar
    0 posts
    7/4/2015 1:07 PM
    Steven Huffstutler, CGCS said: You heard it from one guy who really wasn't sure and had done no research on it.


    Mr Huffstuttler, when I have a couple of "Dead Bongwater Jeffies" under my belt, Don't mess with me man! You know what they do to me!

    "However, urea plus HYDREXX at 0.2 oz was not different than urea alone or UMAXX"

    https://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/report/2006/11.pdf



  25. Tony Feheregyhazi
    Tony Feheregyhazi avatar
    7 posts
    7/4/2015 6:07 PM
    I would recommend a nurse tank and premix app so sprayer is in and out of the shop In minutes. We have a 1200 gallon nurse tank and can now get done in a full day. Nozzles are important. I like green leaf nozzles for reducing drift. Also important to use urease inhibitor if ur irrigation system is not wall to wall. I went full time spraying on fwys this season and love the flexibility I have with customizing my own apps. We also have gone to wider booms to get finished quicker. 6 apps a year and savings on N is substantial.

    Tony Feheregyhazi
    Bridges Gold Course
    Winnipeg, Canada



  26. Jeffrey Sexton
    Jeffrey Sexton avatar
    0 posts
    7/5/2015 7:07 AM
    I agree with Steve earlier. I have been using Redox on my zoysia fairways for 3 years now. Great color, and little growth. My surface is firmer and I haven't placed a blower on my fairways for this time period as well. Huge fuel and time savings. Better for the environment as well.


    Jeff Sexton
    Evansville CC



  27. Melvin Waldron
    Melvin Waldron avatar
    43 posts
    7/5/2015 10:07 AM
    Larry Allan said:
    Melvin Waldron, CGCS said: #quote="Steven Huffstutler, CGCS"##quote="Larry Allan"##quote="Steven Huffstutler, CGCS"##
    David and I must have listened to the same seminar# I just use straight urea in the tank# Umax only works on open ground in granular form# I don't understand the reasoning but that is what the research showed# I've put upwards of 1/3 of # N out in 1 gallon/m without any sign of burn, watered in at night# poa bent at #350#/quote#

    I saw that seminar too and the presenter was wrong# Umaxx does not become molecularly detached by putting it into solution# If that was true, it wouldn't work as a granular, either once the water hit it#

    Steve#/quote#

    Sir# I don't get it either but that's what the guy said, and he a sheet of numbers followed by a,b, and c's # The guy also had letters after his na#e##/quote#

    That's one of the things we need to unlearn#[/quote#

    What do we have to unlearn? Don't listen to a guy with letters after their name?

    You guys both have letters after your names! I'm not listening


    Good choice, I usually don't listen to myself either. I have seen the results when I have.

    Mel

    Melvin H. Waldron III, CGCS, Horton Smith Golf Course, City of Springfield/Greene County MO

  28. Keith Fellenstein
    Keith Fellenstein avatar
    0 posts
    7/6/2015 11:07 AM
    For what it's worth, we've used Redox here before. Good product, but a lot of spraying and difficult to get our sprays out September through March...not good on our cool season golf course. My "hybrid" part granular, mostly foliar program provides same or better playing conditions at less cost...more efficient in my book. I do have heavy clay soils but chose to address chemical and physical limitations in the soil rather than continue on a strictly foliar program. I'm a firm believer in the value of organics and regularly use compost, biosolids, poultry manure, seaweed extracts, and humic and fulvic acid sources. As the soil health has improved, I have been able to reduce fertility inputs all together and the system keeps on trucking. When we were spraying, within a few weeks of the sprayers stopping, turf health went south quickly. Not arguing that we don't focus too much on "recommended" fertility rates, and am very excited you can maintain turf at .0057 # N/m every thirty days in such an extreme environment, it ought to work wonders for us with shorter growing season and less extreme conditions. I see a test plot in my near future.



  29. Mynaugh Thomas P
    Mynaugh Thomas P avatar
    7/6/2015 7:07 PM
    Why not just fertigate? You could easily beat the slow release products. And if everything stays wet with too much rain, you can shut it off.

    Tom Mynaugh
    Renditions



  30. Johnson Aaron M
    Johnson Aaron M avatar
    7/6/2015 8:07 PM
    We have very windy conditions, and poor sprinkler head spacing, which makes fertigation out of the quesiton I would think. Could see some really nice patterns out there



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