Major irrigation problem Cancel The title field is required!

1. Dalton Andrew

   
   4/5/2015 1:04 PM

   We have a 4 inch irrigation line that stretches across this pond about 40 yards (one of the dumbest things I have ever seen) when we blow out the system this pipe floats and when it's full of water it sinks. This winter finally took its toll on it and it came apart at the bell, which is in the middle of this pond. There is a bridge about 20 yards from it, but I think this was installed before the bridge. In order to attach it to the bridge I would have to add to many 90 degree elbows to it and would obviously create too much pressure loss. Not sure if I would be better off using a knock-on fitting for this type of repair or a compression coupler. Anyone ever experience anything like this (I hope not)? Happy Easter, Andrew Dalton Metamora golf and country club

   
   
   
   
2. Jack Tripp

   

   3 posts
   
   4/5/2015 1:04 PM

   You never want to use a knock on fittings on a pipe you can't thrust block and contain all pipe movement or the pipe will come apart.
   
   A future option maybe is to directional bore the pipe under the pond if you don't want to attach the pipe to the bridge. It would be best to use HDPE pipe for this and transitional couplings to connect the HDPE pipe at both end to the PVC. If you ever had a leak in the HDPE it would be hard to find. The chance of a leak in the HDPE would be rare unless you dredge the pond and forget the pipe is there.
   
   Another option would be to use 4" galvanized pipe where you need to make your bends to run PVC across the bridge or run all galvanized pipe. Galvanized pipe doesn't last forever, but it should be good for at least 20 years.
   
   Jack Tripp
   La Crosse Country club
   Onalaska, WI

   
   
   
   
3. Keith Pegg

   

   0 posts
   
   4/5/2015 3:04 PM

   Andrew Dalton said: We have a 4 inch irrigation line that stretches across this pond about 40 yards (one of the dumbest things I have ever seen) when we blow out the system this pipe floats and when it's full of water it sinks. This winter finally took its toll on it and it came apart at the bell, which is in the middle of this pond. There is a bridge about 20 yards from it, but I think this was installed before the bridge. In order to attach it to the bridge I would have to add to many 90 degree elbows to it and would obviously create too much pressure loss. Not sure if I would be better off using a knock-on fitting for this type of repair or a compression coupler. Anyone ever experience anything like this (I hope not)? Happy Easter, Andrew Dalton Metamora golf and country club

   
   
   Had the same thing in SunRiver Oregon 1970 in the winter we had to take the pipe out about 60 yards of it and then we replaced with glued pipe and concrete weights. Took a long time working in cold water. But it never came out of the water again. Was not designed for air and that was the first year we used air.
   
   Keith

   
   
   
   
4. Douglas Eggert

   

   1 posts
   
   4/6/2015 3:04 PM

   I had to do a repair on a 4" 90 on a bridge footing and used ductile iron with megalug glands. The lugs actually bite the pipe and it can't move. Personally anything above 3"' here is a ductile iron repair.
   
   Google the Mega Lug Fittings. http://www.ebaa.com/ This is all my irrigation company uses on major pipe direction changes.
   
   Little pricey, follow the instructions.

   
   
   
   
5. Corey Eastwood

   

   80 posts
   
   4/7/2015 12:04 PM

   Just remember Ductile iron pipe will float if empty on a pond. I would not use anything else.

   
   Corey Eastwood CGCS, Stockton Golf & CC, Retired
   
   
6. Dalton Andrew

   
   4/15/2015 7:04 PM

   I decided to use ductile iron with an epoxy coating and pipe restraints, will let you know how it goes.
   
   Andrew Dalton
   Metamora golf and country club

   
   
   
   
7. Nowakowski Michael J

   
   4/18/2015 1:04 PM

   We had a 4" PVC line running through a creek that broke every spring with the extra water running through it along with any debris going with it. We installed cam locks on either end, and installed a flexible line that lays in the bottom of the creek. Every fall before blowout we removed it, blew out and left it out of the creek until the next spring. This year we will remove it, gravity drain before blowout, push some air through it, then reinstall it. We found we were losing too much air volume when it was removed. When blowout is complete, we will remove it again for the winter.

   
   
   
   
8. Dalton Andrew

   
   4/18/2015 7:04 PM

   I am going to sink this pipe after blow out by using some sort of weighted device. I believe the problem occurred when the ice shifted. I think PVC can handle being encased in ice empty, but I need to make sure I get it down in the winter to avoid any shifting. If it fails again, we are going to attach it to the bridge and loop the other holes to compensate for any pressure loss. Don't have the man power or equipment to do that now.
   
   Andrew