late fertilization Cancel The title field is required!

1. David Brudwick

   

   1 posts
   
   10/17/2012 8:10 PM

   Is it wrong to fertilize tees in late October or early November with a 30 -0- 10 fertilizer. I have sand base tees and would it just leach if we get a lot of rain in late October early November? The course I work at is located in Minnesota .

   
   
   
   
2. Michael Wagner

   

   0 posts
   
   10/22/2012 7:10 AM

   Some guys do late fertilization and some don't but in my experience it can have beneficial and detrimental effects. I say this because high nitrogen late in the season can end up with snowmold issues that you won't see until spring but on the other had after the ground temperature is below 50 degrees the nitrogen really doesn't move much in the soil anymore so you will end up with an early green up in the spring which is a good thing. Personally I do not usually fertilize late in the fall and if I do it is a very light application. I try to keep my nitrogen relatively low going into winter because here in western NY we usually have about 120 days of snow cover and lots of pink and grey snow mold.

   
   
   
   
3. Tim Gravert

   

   0 posts
   
   10/22/2012 8:10 PM

   I have fertilized in late fall with good results. I am right on Illinois and Iowa boarder in the Quad Cities. I have heavy clay soils though. I haven't had any problems with snow mold but also only put down anywhere from 1/2-3/4 lb N/m. Don't get growth in the fall but great green-up in the spring and then ride that out as long as I can. Usually sometime in June start going out with another app. I was wondering what guys do with their greens? I have started to put down .25 lb N/m of ammonium sulfate with my snow mold spray and like the reaction I got in the spring. Thats on USGA spec greens. I keep my green very lean. just over 2 lbs N all year.

   
   
   
   
4. Satterwhite Kerry

   
   10/23/2012 5:10 PM

   What is the Nitrogen source? If it was an IBDU or another WSN I would say no. I think you run the risk of nutrients releasing during a time of year when you don't want the excess growth. If the N was mostly slow release and was dependent on microbial activity rather than hydrolysis like the IBDU I would be more inclined to use it. I liked to use organics or bridge products this time of year to try to enhance root growth when shoot growth was tapering off.