Chemical rotation Cancel The title field is required!

1. T Storie

   

   0 posts
   
   7/11/2011 9:07 PM

   It is getting exceedingly hard to rotate out of some pesticide families. Specifically preemergents and fungicides I was told in preemergents you basically have two choices Oxydiazinon or Dinitoanalyns with Dimension being counted as a Dinitroannalyn because of how it works to date I have not seen any diminished return on the preemergent side. However I am beginning to see control problems specifically with Fairy Ring and the use of DMI's and the Strobillurins the two main families of control products I use for this disease. Using the DMI's I have used Bayleton and Prostar, using the Strob's I use Heritage and Insignia. I have sprayed one or another of these products at the control rate for each of the last 12 weeks at the recommended intervals. I having real issues completely suppressing the the appearance of the rings which I have never had a problem with before. I alternate between the DMI's and the Strobs. I am going to introduce Torque into this regimen hoping for better results. Has anyone else experienced anything similar? Am I missing something? Mechanical cultivation (aeration) has been a useful tool as well. Please excuse the spelling of those chem names:)

   
   
   
   
2. Chuck Barber

   

   0 posts
   
   7/12/2011 6:07 AM

   All fungicides that have activity on Fairy ring should be used with some other practices: wetting agents, adequate fertility, vertical mowing and sand topdressing. The most important consideration for fairy ring suppression (as 'control' is an illusion) would be how far to water the chemical into the profile to move it down far enough to the pathogens home. I've heard of the 'cup cutter' method where you take a sample with a cup cutter and look for the basidiomycete layer but I've never found it myself. My rotation for fairy ring suppression this year was:
   
   - Torque 2 applications @ .6 oz/M three weeks apart in early april and again in early may
   - OARS wetting agent 6 oz/M once monthly
   - deep tine aerating once monthly to a depth of 8" or so
   - Renown at 4 oz/M (Daconil/Heritage combo from syngenta) in early July. Watered in overnight
   - urea at .1 to .2 #/N/M every two to three weeks
   
   I haven't seen breakthrough yet but that doesn't mean I won't. The heat is getting turned up again this weekend. So far so good.
   
   CB

   
   
   
   
3. Melvin Waldron

   

   43 posts
   
   7/12/2011 9:07 AM

   We used 2 applications of Torque this year 4 weeks apart, with the first when soil temps where averaging 65 degrees. We didn't water that in to far maybe .15" of water to get it down into the thatch and upper soil layer. We were suppose to follow that with 2 applications of Revolution wetting agent, each 2 weeks after the Torque applications. Due to rainy weather we didn't get the wetting agent application down until 3 weeks after the second Torque application. We didn't get some of our topdressing and verticutting done early either due to a rainy spring. But I have to say we did not see the puff balls in May like the past two seasons and so far (knock on wood) we haven't seen any evidence of fairy ring either. I have heard Bayleton has seen some break through in the transition zone.
   
   We followed Dr. Lee Miller's (University of Missouri) recommendations.
   
   Mel

   
   Melvin H. Waldron III, CGCS, Horton Smith Golf Course, City of Springfield/Greene County MO
   
   
4. Aaron Gutierrez

   

   0 posts
   
   7/12/2011 1:07 PM

   I received a preventative fairy ring application program from Bayer via my sales rep. I did 2 bayleton flo apps@1oz/1000- 1 in mid april and the other 28 days after initial app soil temp 55-65 degrees. Followed and the program said to follow 60 days later with prostar@2.2oz/1000. well I made it to around 30 days before i had spray the prostar on my mushroom covered greens on 6/19. As of today i still see rings but no mushrooms. And the program stated not to use any wetting agents when applying these products! Has not worked well for me at all. Last year and this year was the worst for fairy ring! So take it for what its worth. I am located in the transition zone. If anyone wants to see this program i received i can email it to ya'll

   
   
   
   
5. Anthony Nysse

   

   1 posts
   
   7/12/2011 2:07 PM

   We did one app of Torque with Pervade in April on Tifeagle andhave not seen any since.

   
   
   
   
6. Baker Daniel

   
   7/12/2011 2:07 PM

   I'm beginning to believe that the preventative approach to Fairy Ring is the best. Once it's there I feel like I'm behind the 8 bal all summer (and part of the winter here) trying to make it disappear.
   
   I used the Bayleton Flo in February and March and just put out my Prostar. I saw about a dozen puff ball mushrooms on two different greens but no rings as of yet. I use wetting agents in late spring and early summer. but not with my fungicides. In the past, I've put Prostar right past the infected area in the green. If I get to that point now, I will pull the plug like mentioned above and let it grow mushrooms in my office before I spray. Then I know just where to put the Prostar.

   
   
   
   
7. Dennis Cook

   

   1 posts
   
   7/13/2011 1:07 PM

   I dont understand the rotation theory. Why would you want to build resistance to multiple products at once. Why not build resistance to one and when it doesnt work anymore switch to the next one? If i can get 10 years out of one product before it quits working, why would i want to build resistance to 3 different products in that same time span?

   
   
   
   
8. Baker Daniel

   
   7/13/2011 1:07 PM

   turfy49431 said: I dont understand the rotation theory. Why would you want to build resistance to multiple products at once. Why not build resistance to one and when it doesnt work anymore switch to the next one? If i can get 10 years out of one product before it quits working, why would i want to build resistance to 3 different products in that same time span?

   
   
   
   For me its not so much a rotation as it is the ability to spray a product in the right conditions. We can't use DMI's in the summer and I like to keep my strobies for the spring and fall for my more lethal diseases. I used the bayleton for the first time as a preventative this year and have had great control thus far. I plan to use it until it stops working and then smoke it with something else like Tourney. When it come to true fungicide "rotations" like were recommended a few years ago, I totally agree with you. Use a good product until you see resistance and then lay the hammer down with a different good product to take out any resistant strains. Maybe even spray a second application of a totally different product to eliminate an even larger percentage of the current population for insurance and then pick a product and stick with it. Repeat as needed

   
   
   
   
9. Gregory Moore

   

   0 posts
   
   8/4/2011 7:08 PM

   On prostar and heritage use wetting agents with irrig. cycle. Been having the same issues switched to Torque fantastic results.

   
   
   
   
10. Wahlin Scott B

    
    8/4/2011 7:08 PM

    I really do not know what to think about the results of fertilizers and chemicals. It seems that every season for the past three years has been the (wettest, dries, hottest, coldest, you-name-itest) one in history.