Tree Roots in Greens Cancel The title field is required!

1. Kleckner Alexander J

   
   8/12/2014 12:08 PM

   I have tree roots surfacing on several of our greens. We plug them out with cup cutters, hex plugs, etc.. to remedy the problem as they surface. However, I am wondering if anyone has experienced the same problem and applied any sort of products/herbicides to the root after the portion of the root that surfaced has been severed and removed from the green? I am hesitant to apply any sort of herbicide directly to the root zone of the green but if someone has had success removing roots and preventing future roots from surfacing I would appreciate hearing from you.
   
   Thanks,
   
   Alex

   
   
   
   
2. Craig Moore

   

   0 posts
   
   8/12/2014 12:08 PM

   Alex
   The best Herbicide I have for this issue is a Stihl MS310 followed up with a Stihl 180C
   Cut down the tree or trees

   
   
   
   
3. Kyle Fick

   

   4 posts
   
   8/12/2014 4:08 PM

   I've had some issues with this on a couple greens as well. Where we wanted to solve the issue and not cut down the tree, we trenched between it and the green, and installed a 4' vertical steel barrier. Should last as long as my memory will go. We used doubled up roofing galvanized roofing steel. These were cottonwoods that would sucker a little, but more so rob the green of nutrients and water. So far so good. A few others have a lot of willows surrounding them. No space to put in a barrier. We've been nuking the shrubby type willows with Garlon, and then pulling the sucker up with hex plugger, cutting it out, and pulling as much from root zone. Time consuming, but effective. The only detriment to all this process has been the increase in ant activity on what I would imagine to be the decomposing main roots. Aesthetically, the removal of the cottonwoods isn't really an option just yet, but the willows no one will notice.

   
   
   
   
4. Kleckner Alexander J

   
   8/17/2014 12:08 PM

   Craig,
   
   Are you cutting down the trees and then applying the herbicide? Just like Kyle, the trees that are giving us the issue are cottonwoods and I can't cut them down.

   
   
   
   
5. Michael Coy

   

   0 posts
   
   8/21/2014 11:08 AM

   BioBarrier...installed in three areas on the course four years ago and love it. I think it's guaranteed success for 10 years.

   
   
   
   
6. Craig Moore

   

   0 posts
   
   8/21/2014 12:08 PM

   I have the green light to cut any tree that negatively impacts the golf course, I know others are not so fortunate. I cut the trees down, ground the stumps and cut out any surface roots. A root Herbicide may work well because at a high enough dose it could kill the tree then you will have to cut it down.
   In your case I think a trench with a bio-barrier installed would work best for you if you can not remove the woody weeds.

   
   
   
   
7. Andy Jorgensen

   

   1 posts
   
   8/21/2014 1:08 PM

   Garlon 4A mixed with Diesel fuel sprayed around the base of the tree will keep the suckers from causing problems....and, well, it will keep the tree from causing problems as well.

   
   
   
   
8. Nowakowski Michael J

   
   8/22/2014 7:08 AM

   Used to always hear from an agronomist to make sure that any barrier does not restrict underground water flow. To eliminate this potentrial, I monitor the areas and just retrench the areas whenever the need arises and do not bother with barriers.

   
   
   
   
9. James Smith

   

   112 posts
   
   8/29/2014 1:08 PM

   heres a little info I picked up in a GCSAA class about trees and the golf course.
   
   Every time you cut a tree root it will sprout out 5 new roots from that point.
   
   What this means for you is that start trenching as close to your green as possible so each time you have to do it again you will cut back into the existing single root and not into the 5 new roots which will become 25 new roots after it is done. Try to leave enough room for years worth of root pruning.
   
   They also said that the barriers do not work if they do not have a chemical in them. the roots will just go around over or under to get where they want to go. They showed us proof of this in class.

   
   
   
   
10. Andy Jorgensen

    

    1 posts
    
    8/30/2014 6:08 AM

    James Smith said: heres a little info I picked up in a GCSAA class about trees and the golf course.
    
    
    They also said that the barriers do not work if they do not have a chemical in them. the roots will just go around over or under to get where they want to go. They showed us proof of this in class.

    
    
    
    Dr. Ed Gilman with the University of Florida has done extensive research on barriers at the tree farm in Gainseville. Over the past 15+ years, he has installed every known barrier available on the market in addition to concrete walls, curbing, metal plates, asphalt shingles, etc....the synopsis was that they all work short term, but eventually the roots go through, under or even over the barriers, even if a chemical was present. If you use a barrier, I would plan on doing it again in 8-10 years from now.
    
    http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-barriers.shtml