Getting Out Set Screws on Par Aid Ballwashers Cancel The title field is required!

1. Christopher Sorrell

   

   0 posts
   
   11/26/2013 7:11 AM

   Anyone got any tricks for getting the set screws that hold the tops on Par Aid Ballwashers out when they are seized in. Tried PB Blaster in the past with mixed results and I don't like heating cast iron with a torch, so I need some good suggestions. Thanks.

   
   
   
   
2. Andy Jorgensen

   

   1 posts
   
   11/26/2013 9:11 AM

   Drill them, then use an easy out. Once they are out, replace with stainless steel set screws or a regular bolt. I've also drilled them out, making the hole bigger, then tapped it for a larger bolt.

   
   
   
   
3. Keith Lamb

   

   3 posts
   
   11/26/2013 9:11 AM

   A.) Drill our centers and use an easy out screw extractor along with PB Blaster and heating.
   B.) Drill out entire screw and re-thread to a larger screw. We use Allen style screws.
   
   Either way, when replacing the screws use some anti-seize on the screws

   
   
   
   
4. Keith Lamb

   

   3 posts
   
   11/26/2013 9:11 AM

   Andy Jorgensen said: Drill them, then use an easy out. Once they are out, replace with stainless steel set screws or a regular bolt. I've also drilled them out, making the hole bigger, then tapped it for a larger bolt.

   
   Great minds think alike. But Andy forgot the anti-seize.....one of his few flaws.

   
   
   
   
5. Richard Lavine

   

   3 posts
   
   11/26/2013 10:11 AM

   If you can get them out, that's great, then rethread the 5/16" hole. Then throw away the set screws and purchase a box of 5/16 x 3/4" stainless steel bolts and anti-seize them before replacement. Nobody really cares if they see a bolt head or a hole where a set screw has been inserted. Good Luck

   
   
   
   
6. Canedo Alberto J

   
   11/26/2013 10:11 AM

   When I buy a new ballwasher I make sure to take all screws/bolts anything with a thread on it and put anti-sieze before placing it in the golf course. Every 6 months I try to go around all ballwashers and make sure to loosen and retighten the screws up and if they need more anti sieze, I go ahead and put more on. Makes it easy if you have to rebuild them down the road.

   
   
   
   
7. Andy Jorgensen

   

   1 posts
   
   11/26/2013 11:11 AM

   Keith Lamb said:

   Andy Jorgensen said: Drill them, then use an easy out. Once they are out, replace with stainless steel set screws or a regular bolt. I've also drilled them out, making the hole bigger, then tapped it for a larger bolt.

   
   Great minds think alike. But Andy forgot the anti-seize.....one of his few flaws.

   
   
   
   That's only because I don't like using anti-seize. Huffing it leaves too much of a mess under my nose. Everyone wonders why I have silver or gold "paint" on me. Only time I do ever use anti-seize is when I coat my mechanics phone ear piece. Always a good laugh when he walks around with it on his ears.
   
   
   And sorry, my mistake. Use the dang anti-seize on your bolts.

   
   
   
   
8. Kenneth Ingram

   

   18 posts
   
   11/26/2013 3:11 PM

   Must be cold in OK if you are already working on BW's. My last mechanic was a welder by trade, so he fixed everything by welding. You can build up just enough of a bead on the set screw to get vice grips on them. It won't arc to the BW body. Plus the heat loosens them a bit. Four or five zaps is all it takes. Kenneth Ingram, UMD

   
   
   
   
9. Kevin Girt

   

   0 posts
   
   11/27/2013 10:11 AM

   One of the best tricks I know is to drill them out but with a left-handed drill bit, if the bit is sized correctly you wont have to use the easy out. especially now that a lot of the ball washers are being made of cast aluminum.

   
   
   
   
10. Timothy Walker

    

    0 posts
    
    11/27/2013 9:11 PM

    Heat, to free them up if you haven't stripped them yet, run your tap thru the threads, anti seize your threads for future use