Basamid Cancel The title field is required!

1. William Pridgen

   

   0 posts
   
   1/27/2012 8:01 AM

   We are changing out our greens this summer from tifdwarf to tifeagle. Thinking about using basamid because of the savings instead of Methyl Bromide. I am concerned about not killing the tifdwarf and mutations completely off and having contamination problems down the road. Is this a valid concern:?:

   
   
   
   
2. McCallum David K

   
   1/27/2012 9:01 AM

   The product works William but not quite in the class of MB.........the key is proper application. Have seen it work in the sod industry and on golf fairways both with mixed results. Again a good applicator (or application) is key.

   
   
   
   
3. William Pridgen

   

   0 posts
   
   1/30/2012 7:01 AM

   Thanks for your input, I am still debating. I just want to do want is best, but money is a concern.

   
   
   
   
4. Andy Jorgensen

   

   1 posts
   
   1/30/2012 8:01 AM

   Contact Scott Wahlin. He did some of his greens a few years back.
   
   Wahlin, Scott B, CGCS
   Class: A
   Facility:
   Links at Boynton Beach
   
   Address:
   PO BOX 310
   Boynton Beach, FL 33425-0310
   Phone: (561) 742-6502
   Fax: (561) 966-1700
   
   wahlins@ci.boynton-beach.fl.us

   
   
   
   
5. Wahlin Scott B

   
   2/1/2012 6:02 AM

   David McCallum said: The product works William but not quite in the class of MB.........the key is proper application. Have seen it work in the sod industry and on golf fairways both with mixed results. Again a good applicator (or application) is key.

   
   
   I think David hit the nail on the head here. Basamid is pretty darn good, but it is not as good as methyl bromide. With Basamid the application at the highest rate and proper follow-up irrigation is crucial. I do not think either one claims to completely eradicate everything. I do not know if Basamid controls sting nematodes. That might be a question for the manufacturer's rep.
   
   I used both Basamid and methyl bromide, but it was not a fair comparison. We have an 18-hole par 71 and a 9-hole par 30. We used methyl bromide on the par 71, but we also removed the top 3" and rototilled in 4" of sand. We used Basamid on the par 30 and did a no-till.
   
   My recommendation is to use methy bromide if you have the money. If you don't, Basamid is a fair alternative, but pay close attention to the application instructions.

   
   
   
   
6. William Pridgen

   

   0 posts
   
   2/1/2012 9:02 AM

   Thanks for the input. I hated I mentioned Basamid to the owner, but I still feel I can convince him we need to use Methyl Bromide. The company I've booked the Methyl Bromide with hasn't given me a price yet. I've heard that the price is changing constantly. Either way I still feel I will be in a better situation then I was with my old tifdwarf mutated and contaminated greens.

   
   
   
   
7. Frank Zamazal

   

   0 posts
   
   2/4/2012 9:02 AM

   I renovated a course in Rancho Mirage back in 2005 and treated 50 acres (greens, tees, fairways, surrounds, & bunker slopes) with Basamid. My sting counts were 2000 per liter before the application. Sent in samples to Dr. Manuel Mundo Ocampo at UC Riverside and he could not find any live nematodes...I had a count of negative 15 based on his testing. I used the max rate and grow-in was weed-free as well. Basamid was worth every penny.

   
   
   
   
8. Stephen Okula

   

   3 posts
   
   2/4/2012 11:02 AM

   I've had great results with Basamid. I think the key is to cover it after rot-tilling and watering. Leave the plastic over it for a week, and there won't be a lot of biology left.

   
   
   
   
9. Jeffrey Sexton

   

   0 posts
   
   7/23/2012 8:07 PM

   I have a bentgrass nursery that is completely dead. It has Bermuda, nutsedge, goose grass and every other weed growing in it. It is mostly sand based. I was thinking about hitting it with a bag of basamid a couple of weeks before reshaping and seeding. Anyone out there used basamid? Should I cover it after treatment?
   
   Thanks.
   
   Jeff Sexton
   Evansville, CC

   
   
   
   
10. Grote Richard R

    
    7/24/2012 7:07 AM

    I used it a few years back and if you want to get rid of Bermuda you need to be at nearly 400 lbs per acre. We aerified a fairway twice over and used a Gandy drop spreader.(Be sure to wear a mask) as the fumes will knock you out. We did not cover the area but we watered it in heavily for three days. Keep the wild life away as it is quite toxic.
    
    Rick Grote

    
    
    
    
11. Robinson John B

    
    7/24/2012 8:07 AM

    I've used it before and was quite pleased with the results. We applied it with drop spreaders, roto-tilled it in, watered it heavily and then covered it for seven days.
    
    John B. Robinson

    
    
    
    
12. McCallum David K

    
    7/24/2012 10:07 AM

    Have used it and find it a decent alternate of methyl bromide. It will move on you so keep that in mind. It can kill trees so use precaution but assume no trees around a nursery green. Scott W also has experience with the product as well.

    
    
    
    
13. Wahlin Scott B

    
    7/24/2012 11:07 AM

    It did not work well for us. We tried with a No-Till going from contiminated Bermuda to Tifdwarf.