Mainline out of pump house Cancel The title field is required!

1. Bradley Frunchak

   

   24 posts
   
   4/11/2016 6:04 PM

   I have discovered a leak coming from the mainline coming out of the pump house. The leak is in the concrete thrust block.
   
   The pipe is 4" steel then 'z' drops down and then transitions to 6" PVC. Not sure how the two are put together.
   The concrete block is 2'x2'x6'.
   
   After breaking the concrete and locating the leak, what is the best was to repair. If it is flanged should I do a flange fitting again or is there a different way to fix this?
   
   Do I need to make the concrete block the same size again or can I go smaller?
   
   I run 3 x 15 hp pumps.

   
   
   
   
2. Max Lamas

   

   0 posts
   
   4/12/2016 5:04 AM

   I would do same size block. Don't do it wrong and have it fail because of shortcuts. I would transition from 4 inch steel to pic and then go from 4 inch pvs to 6 inch pvc.

   
   
   
   
3. Cerminara Jamie L

   
   4/12/2016 6:04 AM

   You will probably need something like this...
   
   http://www.harcofittings.com/Products/D ... gs_021.htm
   
   and
   
   http://www.harcofittings.com/Products/D ... ts_002.htm
   
   I would bury in at least the same size block of concrete...or more...it's cheap.
   
   Hope this helps, good luck!

   
   
   
   
4. Keith Fellenstein

   

   0 posts
   
   4/12/2016 10:04 AM

   Until you locate, identify, and diagnose the cause of the leak, any solution is speculation. Safe to say though, if a problem occurred from/in the original installation, any repair ought to be bigger and better unless you want to do it again. A few extra dollars and hours now could save you much more later.

   
   
   
   
5. Bradley Frunchak

   

   24 posts
   
   4/14/2016 10:04 PM

   Update
   
   We broke out the concrete and found: the 4" metal pipe had a threaded end and there was a pvc piece threaded on. Then a a piece of 4" glued into a 6x4 reducer then glued into a bell ended 6" pipe. The threaded pvc failed.
   
   The repair I'm going for a 6" ductile fitting with a ductile 4" reducer inserted into the 6" and then clamped onto the steel pipe and then a 6" section of pvc tied into the existing 6" mainline, secured with a Hymax coupler.
   
   
   
   Good???
   
   Questions:
   
   I like to test repairs before I bury them. How can I accomplish this, with this repair?? Hate to put it in concrete and discover it is leaking.
   
   What can I put on or around the pipe so that the concrete doesn't bond to the pipe. The original install had something on the pipe so the concrete seperated from the pipe.

   
   
   
   
6. Kyle Fick

   

   4 posts
   
   4/15/2016 8:04 AM

   I've wrapped fittings/pipe with heavy plastic before dumping concrete in, at least it leaves it clean. Also have made a "form" if you will out of treated lumber and staked that up against the area I wanted to thrust block, poured mud behind it. Even if the 1/4" material degrades, it isn't enough to allow movement to cause the failure with the concrete behind it. And it should remain as long as the system does.
   
   Are your ductile fittings mega lugs? We did a repair with 11 1/4 degree mega lug and a hymax (all 12"), about three years ago in the same location outside the pumphouse on the end of the Z pipe. I buried it and poured the sides and filled the system and brought to full pressure. Those restraining type joints don't allow any movement. we left the top visible for a few days and completed the bury and compaction. If installed properly, the Hymax couplings and mega lugs are pretty fool proof. Just make sure to follow the torq specs.

   
   
   
   
7. Andy Jorgensen

   

   1 posts
   
   4/15/2016 9:04 AM

   The HYMAX couplings will still allow for movement without thrust blocks present. I have also seen MegaLugs move without thrust blocks. Simply for the fact the next joint down can still pull out. Our utility contractor will use joint restraints on the next three joints down to avoid having to pour concrete. This is on potable supply lines with only 60 PSI.
   
   Whichever way you go, I would avoid PVC fittings, use MegaLugs as much as possible and pour a ton of concrete. I figure the amount I need by basically calculating PSI x pipe size. For instance. a 6" fitting at 100 psi will exert 600#'s of thrust and we pour 600#s of concrete. I know this isn't very accurate, but it hasn't failed yet!

   
   
   
   
8. Max Lamas

   

   0 posts
   
   4/15/2016 11:04 AM

   Are your irrigation system charged? If so can you open the valve out to the field and let the water gravity feed to your pump house? May be a way to test for leaks.

   
   
   
   
9. Bradley Frunchak

   

   24 posts
   
   4/15/2016 1:04 PM

   The 4"x6" ductile fitting will be Leemco with restraints and then the 6" will be tied into the existing line with a Hymax Grip fitting. I've used both on my 6" mainline when I relocated my mainline 10 years ago and have had no issues.