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Using Gypsum on Fairways

14 posts
  1. Theodore Piersol
    Theodore Piersol avatar
    0 posts
    1/29/2015 8:01 PM
    Just read an article on Gypsum and the benefits to soil structure and a mention about preventing crusting. Several years ago I had an crusting issue on several Fairways and a green. I do apply gypsum to my greens but haven't thought about the fairways. Would Gypsum help water penetration as wetting agents do and in my clay soils help move the water through the profile?



  2. Gary Carls
    Gary Carls avatar
    19 posts
    1/29/2015 9:01 PM
    Theodore,

    The short and simple answer is yes. We used to apply gypsum to our poor draining fairways in the winter months when we would get some rains to help dissolve it off the surface. Also, we found it would be better to apply it after an aeration event on the fairways if possible. It definitely helped and made those fairways more playable in the winter months. Pretty low-cost program in the long run and well worth it even if you only able to treat your worst fairways.

    Gary K. Carls, CGCS, President - Oakland Turfgrass Education Initiative

  3. Matt DeVer
    Matt DeVer avatar
    0 posts
    1/30/2015 7:01 AM
    Theodore,

    We use a product called scrubber gypsum on our fairways. It is a byproduct created from the cleaning of stacks at power stations. It is very clean and has a label you can refer to. Our club is located in Cincinnati, Ohio and is applied late fall, early winter. The spreading of material must be done with a belt driven unit that has spinners. It is not in a prill form. Cost is roughly $41.00/ton which includes freight. One load is right around 23 tons. Our soils are very heavy and sodium levels are high in irrigation water. Since incorporating this method I feel the fairways have improved over time. Our target rate is 1 ton/Ac. If you are interested in more details or need a contact please let me know.

    Matt DeVer
    The Cincinnati Country Club



  4. Theodore Piersol
    Theodore Piersol avatar
    0 posts
    1/30/2015 11:01 AM
    Cost is roughly $41.00/ton which includes freight. One load is right around 23 tons.


    I'm in SE Pa. and got quotes from 275 to 450 per ton Bulk. Might be worth while finding a shipper to bring in a load from Ohio.



  5. Rick Tegtmeier
    Rick Tegtmeier avatar
    0 posts
    1/30/2015 12:01 PM
    I would do your homework before you buy the gypsum.

    http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalke ... Gypsum.pdf



  6. Michael Rogers
    Michael Rogers avatar
    2 posts
    1/30/2015 1:01 PM
    Theodore,

    Gypsum costs in California
    92 –97 %
    regular grind: $41.00 per ton
    fine grind: "solution grad"
    $75 to $85 per ton
    Long hauls (> 70 –100 miles) to field
    will increase the cost

    The price you quote for gypsum seems high.

    It seems to me that the esteemed garden specialist has a real bias toward gypsum. It is not a cure all but it helps in a lot of situations. I would also look at sugar beet waste products. Here in Spain there was a very good product that was really high in calcium and phosphorus and maybe half the price of gypsum. Sugar beet production is closing down over last several years. I know a good one in central Turkey, I was going to send a boat full to Cyprus and save about 40 grand per year less than gypsum. and 100 grand less for their reverse osmosis electric bill.

    Not sure about gypsum availability or sugar beet production in Northeast, it has been almost 25 years since living there. The Carolinas have production. I sourced some for Myrtle Beach some years ago.

    Saludos
    Michael Rogers
    Down to EARTH Water Management



  7. Peter Bowman
    Peter Bowman avatar
    11 posts
    1/30/2015 8:01 PM
    A soils consultant once "saved me a lot of money" by him recommending and me using sugar beet lime as a fairway calcium source. It was really cheap.

    Worst experience I ever had. The load particle size ranged from dust to nearly football (inflated) size chunks. I had to have an employee sit in the spreader and push the material down to the belt because it was bridging in the hopper. Two-man job to spread? We were lucky to get two fairways done each day. What a mess.

    I spent the better part of the day following each application crisscrossing fairways in a utility cart using a square shovel to toss big chunks into the cart, just so we could mow. You couldn't pay me enough to use that product again.



  8. Michael Rogers
    Michael Rogers avatar
    2 posts
    1/31/2015 2:01 AM
    Pete,

    A few supers in my area were putting it out at about 4 tons per acre without problems. This was several years ago and the plant shut down.

    There was a cow manure product 20 years ago in Northern Ireland that was about $1500 an acre to apply. It was made by Irish monks and was extremely effective in thatch reduction and disease control.

    The sugar beet stuff here was well processed as per the Irish brew. Not fun applying the beet lime that you describe.

    Saludos MIchael



  9. Theodore Piersol
    Theodore Piersol avatar
    0 posts
    1/31/2015 9:01 AM
    Never heard of using beep pulp on turf but I know horse people use it as a supplemental feed, it has high fiber content, but it must be soaked first since it swells so much in water probably 3 to 4 times in size.



  10. Peter Bowman
    Peter Bowman avatar
    11 posts
    1/31/2015 12:01 PM
    Sugar beet lime, not beet pulp. Lime is used in the sugar extraction process (I think), then can be thrown on the ground as a calcium source.



  11. Adam Stottlemyer
    Adam Stottlemyer avatar
    0 posts
    2/2/2015 6:02 AM
    We tried putting Gypsum down this past year on our fairways as we tend to get a lot of localized dry spots, and I feel it helped. It wasn't a cure all but feel it did relieve some of pain we had. I'd recommend trying it out and seeing if it works for you.



  12. Ronald Conard
    Ronald Conard avatar
    4 posts
    2/2/2015 11:02 AM
    Michael Rogers said: Pete,

    A few supers in my area were putting it out at about 4 tons per acre without problems. This was several years ago and the plant shut down.

    There was a cow manure product 20 years ago in Northern Ireland that was about $1500 an acre to apply. It was made by Irish monks and was extremely effective in thatch reduction and disease control.

    The sugar beet stuff here was well processed as per the Irish brew. Not fun applying the beet lime that you describe.

    Saludos MIchael



    Lime is not gypsum though. Sugar beet lime is not going to supply the sulfate anion as gypsum would. The sulfate anion is needed to form sodium sulfate which is soluble and then can be leached if there is any drainage available. Using calcium carbonate in a turf situation on a high sodium soil is not going to do much but sit there like a rock. On highly acidic soils I imagine beet lime would work okay.

    To the original question, gypsum works great and has been proven over time. But like anything else, it needs to be used for the right application. The first place to start is with soil and water tests and go from there. The use of waste water suggests a high sodium situation but the chemistry of both soil and water really needs to be analyzed before developing a cultural plan.



  13. Keith Fellenstein
    Keith Fellenstein avatar
    0 posts
    2/3/2015 10:02 AM
    To the original question, gypsum works great and has been proven over time. But like anything else, it needs to be used for the right application. The first place to start is with soil and water tests and go from there. The use of waste water suggests a high sodium situation but the chemistry of both soil and water really needs to be analyzed before developing a cultural plan.

    Ronald Conard, CGCS

    I'll second that! Most of the info from the extension service relates to urban environments and landscape plants. Do your homework and test your water and soils and make an educated decision based on the facts. It has been a regular part of our program on clay soils in the roughs and fairways and as a calcium source that doesn't change the pH on our USGA greens.



  14. Brian Powell
    Brian Powell avatar
    0 posts
    2/4/2015 3:02 PM
    Gypsum is one of the oldest soil amendments used in agriculture.

    1) Gypsum is proven to help flocculate soils. If you don't believe it put gypsum in a cloudy pond (if the result of silt intrusion) and watch it turn very clear in a matter of only a few days. Farmers have don't this for years with barley bales. Straight gypsum works well also.

    2) Purchase the cheapest fine textured gypsum you can. The finer the texture the quicker it works. I've used gypsum for clearing up lakes and applying on fairways and roughs for years, if you see a cloud behind the spreader your probably using something that will work quickly. "Rock" products may take years to fully break down and get into the soil. Sure they are less dusty to spread but you also may not be alive when they are fully available to the soil. Some companies sell crushed sheetrock (yes what your walls are made of) and that works ok also. Sheetrock is primarily gypsum.

    3) Have realistic expectations. If my PH was incorrect, or I needed Nitrogen, or Phosphorus etc... I'd spend my money on those products 1st. Gypsum is helpful in tight, remediated, or de flocculated soils but it can only do so much. The good news is its generally inexpensive.

    4) Consider construction suppliers like US Gypsum for larger orders. They generally have fine textured gypsum and they don't have a mark up.

    Good luck. Gypsum is a great product. As with all products remember there is no Superintendent in the bag.
    ;)



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