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USGA (sorta)

8 posts
  1. Curtis Nickerson
    Curtis Nickerson avatar
    0 posts
    11/13/2011 3:11 PM
    Anyone out there know of any issues or things to look for on a nearly spec usga green, that is to say, a green constructed to spec minus the choker layer?
    I'm told they greens require excessive amounts of irrigation do to the accelerated draining. The greens have 4plus inches of organic content and are planted in Eagle. I should mention that they have absolutely no roots, but have a good stand of turf.
    Thanks



  2. Andy Jorgensen
    Andy Jorgensen avatar
    1 posts
    11/13/2011 4:11 PM
    We have modified USGA greens on two courses. One has interior drainage, the other was installed on native soil. Both drain extremely well and require us to irrigate quite often. I'd much rather have it this way then too wet like our third courses that has native push up(clay/muck) greens and don't drain at all. The down side to greens that drain too much, besides the excessive water, is nutrients leach too much and they get hot much quicker. We found that frequent spoon feeding works best as well as using a retaining wetting agent like Magnus. We will also schedule someone to come back in the afternoons on the weekends to spin the heads if the weather requires it.



  3. Wahlin Scott B
    Wahlin Scott B avatar
    11/13/2011 4:11 PM
    It seems to me like a read an article that the Green Section is recommending ultradwarfs be handwatered like bent. I resurfaced all of my greens with Tifdwarf since handwatering and continuous spoon feeding was out of the question. I have Nemacur, roots and rhizomes!



  4. Andy Jorgensen
    Andy Jorgensen avatar
    1 posts
    11/14/2011 5:11 AM
    wahlins said: I have Nemacur



    Count your blessings.



  5. Neidhardt John J
    Neidhardt John J avatar
    11/14/2011 8:11 AM
    andyjorg said:
    wahlins said: I have Nemacur



    Count your blessings.



    I still have 2 pallets left. I will let some it go for 1k/per bag 5 bag maximum
    -just kidding



  6. Andy Jorgensen
    Andy Jorgensen avatar
    1 posts
    11/14/2011 9:11 AM
    jneidhardt said:
    andyjorg said:
    wahlins said: I have Nemacur



    Count your blessings.



    I still have 2 pallets left. I will let some it go for 1k/per bag 5 bag maximum
    -just kidding



    Jeez.....are you trying to retire???

    I came across 6 bags a few months back. Not telling you what I traded for it, but both parties were happy. My suggestion is if you have it, hang on to it for your own use. I bought a pallet and it was gone within a year. Wish I had more.



  7. Cecala Randal
    Cecala Randal avatar
    11/14/2011 1:11 PM
    Curtis, Greens constructed without choker layers can comply with USGA specs if the gravel and rootzone parameters fall within guidelines below. You have serious issues either way if you have no roots.

    Hope things work out.

    Michael Rogers
    Down to EARTH Water Management ( Soil Solutions )
    michaelrogers53@msn.com

    SIZE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR GRAVEL WHEN INTERMEDIATE LAYER IS NOT USED
    Performance Factors Recommendation
    Bridging Factor D15 (gravel) less than or equal to 8 X D85 (root zone)
    Permeability Factor D15 (gravel) greater than or equal to 5 X D15 (root zone)
    Uniformity Factors D90 (gravel) / D15 (gravel) is less than or equal to 3.0
    No particles greater than 12 mm
    Not more than 10% less than 2 mm
    Not more than 5% less than 1 mm
    B. Selection of Gravel When the Intermediate Layer Is Not Used
    If an appropriate gravel can be identified (see Table 2), the intermediate layer need not be included in the construction of the green. In some instances, this can save a considerable amount of time and money.
    Selection of this gravel is based on the particle size distribution of the root zone material. The architect and/or construction superintendent must work closely with the soil testing laboratory in selecting the appropriate gravel. Either of the following two methods may be used:
    Send samples of different gravel materials to the lab when submitting samples of components for the root zone mix. As a general guideline, look for gravel in the 2 mm to 9.5 mm range. The lab first will determine the best root zone mix, and then will test the gravel samples to determine if any meet the guidelines outlined below.
    Submit samples of the components for the root zone mix, and ask the laboratory to provide a description, based on the root zone mix tests, of the particle size distribution required of the gravel. Use the description to locate one or more appropriate gravel materials, and submit them to the laboratory for confirmation.
    Gravel meeting the criteria below will not require the intermediate layer. It is not necessary to understand the details of these recommendations; the key is to work closely with the soil testing laboratory in selecting the gravel. Strict adherence to these criteria is imperative; failure to follow these guidelines could result in greens failure.
    The criteria are based on engineering principles which rely on the largest 15% of the root zone particles "bridging" with the smallest 15% of the gravel particles. Smaller voids are produced, and they prevent migration of root zone particles into the gravel yet maintain adequate permeability. The D85 (root zone) is defined as the particle diameter below which 85% of the soil particles (by weight) are smaller. The D15 (gravel) is defined as the particle diameter below which 15% of the gravel particles (by weight) are smaller.
    • For bridging to occur, the D15 (gravel) must be less than or equal to eight times the D85 (root zone).
    • To maintain adequate permeability across the root zone/gravel interface, the D15 (gravel) shall be greater than or equal to five times the D15 (root zone).
    • The gravel shall have a uniformity coefficient (Gravel D90/Gravel D15) of less than or equal to 3.0.

    Furthermore, any gravel selected shall have 100% passing a 1/2" (12 mm) sieve and not more than 10% passing a No. 10 (2 mm) sieve, including not more than 5% passing a No. 18 (1 mm) sieve.



  8. Baker Daniel
    Baker Daniel avatar
    11/16/2011 8:11 AM
    TifEagle is a terrible rooter. I don't recall ever seeing solid root mass below 3". Anybody else?

    I have straight sugar sand with Eagle and the healthiest nematode population this side of the Mississippi. I'm basically a little slice of south Florida here in south Texas on a coastal peninsula. We have to hand water a couple times a week. In the heat of the summer I run the heads two days on and one day off. The day they are off, I make sure my irrigation comes on as early as possible. I am a firm believer that bermuda never slows down in the summer and need the water in the evening. I don't have any issues with leaf disease so I don't care if they are wet all night.

    With straight sand watch for nutrient leaching. With a shortened root zone, it is easy to think you have good fertility down and it will move past the root zone or flush out completely. Pick your program but weekly spoon feeding with a soil fertility program to target the top 2-3"

    Good luck with your sorta USGA greens



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