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naturalized area burn

11 posts
  1. Jeremy Hreben
    Jeremy Hreben avatar
    0 posts
    12/6/2013 9:12 AM
    So we have quite a few "naturalized areas" here at the course. You know what I am talking about; areas that were just left unmowed to safe time and money. Every year we mow them twice a year and they look good for a bit then become overgrown and unsightly. Well, this year, along with the fire department and state forestry division, I was able to obtain a burn permit. Originally, the fire department said they would be here to help and basically do everything for us. Now they have backed out. I still have my permit and want to go ahead with the burn but not sure how to go about this. I am assuming I should mow around anything I do not want to burn, i.e. trees. But how should I start it, what are some precautions I should take? any advice would be helpful.



  2. Sandy Clark
    Sandy Clark avatar
    0 posts
    12/6/2013 10:12 AM
    Shoot a flaming area from a safe distance and then run and hide!!! Without the fire dept. assisting, that does pose a challenge. I imagine your crew is not set up to try to manage a burn. That really gets into safety issues. Hopefully some supts. with experience with this will respond because I would like to learn about this as well.



  3. Steven Hollembeak
    Steven Hollembeak avatar
    0 posts
    12/6/2013 10:12 AM
    Backburn into the wind first. Then burn in strips back toward the area already burnt



  4. Chris Wiedenmeyer
    Chris Wiedenmeyer avatar
    0 posts
    12/6/2013 11:12 AM
    Jeremy,

    I have done a lot of burning both on my course as well as for the local volunteer fire department.

    A controlled burn can go wrong real fast but can be a lot of fun for the crew if it works right. We have a blast each fall burning our course with no help from local FD.

    First thing you want to do is make sure you have lots of water to use in case. We use both large area sprayers and have 2 men with back pack sprayers for small spots. A shovel works well to smother also.

    Anything you do not want to burn inside the larger burn area make sure to back burn around. A ten foot ring is usually sufficient to keep fire away. Start a fire at the base and let it work out from the tree, just spray the trunk so that area will not start.

    Your best burns will come when burning into a light breeze. What works for us is to use the booms on the sprayer, drive slowly around the edge and lay down a "wet line" so the fire will not cross. We use a drip torch to start the fire in a line, that is what you will want to do. If it is dry enough a weed burner hooked to propane works or just a small torch.

    Do not start on a big area that can get away from you. Start small and build some confidence. When you are done have a guy watch it for flare ups, maybe hose them down. If any wind is in the forecast just wait a while. Your courses rough may catch a bit but for us that is where the fire stops.

    Any questions just ask either here or pm me. I have been on the local department 6 years and am now 2nd captain in charge of some of these burns. Good luck, take a photo or 2, post here.

    PS:Be prepared to have you wife tell you, you stink after a day of burning. Great smell though!!



  5. Justin VanLanduit
    Justin VanLanduit avatar
    0 posts
    12/7/2013 8:12 AM
    Jeremy,

    Been doing burns on my course for the last 7 years and I'm usually able to do it by myself. We have roughly 15 acres that we burn throughout the course. Use the wind to your advantage to help control, if I have things I'm concerned about I start close by them and burn back into the wind as it will burn much slower. I find with back burning as well you get all the stuff down close to the ground, at times if you use the wind to push the fire through quick some the clump grasses don't get burnt all to well. Have never had a fire burn outside the "native" area, once it gets to the rough it goes out. Start small, work the area in sections. If you are going to use the wind to push it start at the farthest point of the area where the fire will be pushed and just work backwards taking an area at a time. This will also help reduce the amount of smoke that is given off. We've also used a little diesel fuel once in awhile to help get the burn better. Enjoy, burning is a fun thing to do but does great for those areas.

    Justin



  6. Jeremy Hreben
    Jeremy Hreben avatar
    0 posts
    12/12/2013 4:12 PM
    Thanks guys. All of that seems very helpful. One question that I have(I am sure more will come up) is what do I do about trees in these areas that i want to keep? You've mentioned back burning? What is that?



  7. Justin VanLanduit
    Justin VanLanduit avatar
    0 posts
    12/12/2013 4:12 PM
    Start close to the base of the tree and light around it to where the flame can burn into the wind. This will give you room around the tree where a fast moving fire and hot fire won't get near. You can soak with water too. What type of tree you talking about? I usually don't worry about the larger trees, but do protect younger ones. Fire doesn't stay lit long enough around it to start the tree on fire. Will singe pine/spruce trees though, definitely burn away from or have water handy for them.



  8. Steven Huffstutler
    Steven Huffstutler avatar
    11 posts
    12/12/2013 6:12 PM
    Bunch of firebugs



  9. Clay Putnam
    Clay Putnam avatar
    33 posts
    12/13/2013 5:12 AM
    We burned approximately 65 acres of naturalized area. It was quite easy for us in that trees were not an issue. There were a few buildings in the vicinity of a couple burn areas and the adjacent maintained turf was enough, by itself, to stop the line of fire. We back burned the buildings locations and stood at the ready with hoses hooked up to the irrigation system. The wind pushed the flames uncomfortably close to one building. We had one hose turned on the building and one on the flames so all turned out OK. The moral of this little story is that you can't be too careful even with the back burn and hoses so stay on your toes.



  10. David Stone
    David Stone avatar
    9 posts
    12/13/2013 1:12 PM
    If there is not much wind a big blower on a tractor and back-pack blowers are helpful. With the blowers it is easy to influence the direction the fire goes and useful in back burning.

    David Stone
    The Honors Course
    Chattanooga, Tn.



  11. Clay Putnam
    Clay Putnam avatar
    33 posts
    12/13/2013 2:12 PM
    David Stone said: If there is not much wind a big blower on a tractor and back-pack blowers are helpful. With the blowers it is easy to influence the direction the fire goes and useful in back burning.

    David Stone
    The Honors Course
    Chattanooga, Tn.


    Great idea....



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