Potash apps on Champion Cancel The title field is required!

1. Paul Brandenburg

   

   0 posts
   
   2/8/2012 1:02 PM

   Greetings all, am looking for some helpful tips. We are growing Champion bermuda on a fairly sterile rootzone here in Greenville, SC. Rootzone is 80/20 with no gravel layer; greens are 4 years old. Soil reports ALWAYS say low K. Mainly due to constant irrigation and our water source (which strips both Ca and K). We spray every 5-7 days from March to about October.
   
   Anyone having success with certain products keeping their K levels adequate? And what would you recommend? Currently we use / have tried several types: 0-0-50 SoP granular, 13-0-44 soluble, and various liquids / foliars, among others.
   
   Any help is much appreciated.
   
   Paul Brandenburg, CGCS
   Furman University Golf Club, Greenville SC

   
   
   
   
2. Keith Lamb

   

   3 posts
   
   2/8/2012 2:02 PM

   Are tissue tests showing K deficiency in the Champion? I spray my Champion weekly with some source of K. I try to mostly use a Potassium Acetate(0-0-29) or Potassium Thiosulfate(0-0-25) and then go out every other week with a 12-2-24 with monthly applications of 0-0-22. Finding more success with more frequent/lighter granular applications. I shoot for 1.25-1.5 # K/1000 per month. Champion does like high K. AAT has a new fertilizer, 0-0-50 SGN 90 Duration Coated 180 day release SOP. Runs about $52ish a bag. I was thinking of trying it.

   
   
   
   
3. Baker Daniel

   
   2/8/2012 6:02 PM

   I pound mine with K and they love it (TifEagle). I use a soluable Potassium Nitrate, 13-2-13, Andersons 0-0-19, Floratines 0-0-44 (QuadK), Solucal 3-0-10, and of course KMag at different times depending on what I am looking for and what time of year. I will use about 15#/M this year after doing something similar last year and having a banner year in a historic drought. I am also a big believer in Mg and Mn, but thats another post
   
   I have straight sand greens with no gravel and hold onto very little.

   
   
   
   
4. Andy Jorgensen

   

   1 posts
   
   2/8/2012 6:02 PM

   Check out the AAT 0-0-50 or Harrell's 0-0-50, whatever is available in your area. Apply at 2#K/m at aerification and drag in. That is a good base. Then foliarly apply after that. That's basically what we do on our TifDwarf.

   
   
   
   
5. Steven Huffstutler

   

   11 posts
   
   2/8/2012 7:02 PM

   Champion here in S. Florida. Lesco 0-0-28 granular every other week @ .5lbs per application. Foliar 0-0-20 at 1 gal / acre weekly. Works pretty well, I would say.

   
   
   
   
6. Paul Brandenburg

   

   0 posts
   
   2/9/2012 7:02 AM

   Thanks for all those replies, guys. I will look into a few of those products that I haven't already used. One other question: are you guys trying to keep a certain N-K ratio (say 1-1 or 1-2)? These last few years I have been upwards of 9-10 lbs of N with a similar amount of K.

   
   
   
   
7. Keith Lamb

   

   3 posts
   
   2/9/2012 8:02 AM

   At least a 1to 2 ratio. I'm usually between 5-7 lbs N/1000/year and around 15 lbs. K/1000/year.

   
   
   
   
8. Larry Allan

   

   0 posts
   
   2/9/2012 9:02 AM

   Not sure how this applies to Champion but it is interesting
   
   
   
   [youtube">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rMM-4XJ5dA[/youtube">

   
   
   
   
9. Robert Crockett

   

   4 posts
   
   2/9/2012 2:02 PM

   Paul Brandenburg, CGCS said: Greetings all, am looking for some helpful tips. We are growing Champion bermuda on a fairly sterile rootzone here in Greenville, SC. Rootzone is 80/20 with no gravel layer; greens are 4 years old. Soil reports ALWAYS say low K. Mainly due to constant irrigation and our water source (which strips both Ca and K). We spray every 5-7 days from March to about October.
   
   Anyone having success with certain products keeping their K levels adequate? And what would you recommend? Currently we use / have tried several types: 0-0-50 SoP granular, 13-0-44 soluble, and various liquids / foliars, among others.
   
   Any help is much appreciated.
   
   Paul Brandenburg, CGCS
   Furman University Golf Club, Greenville SC

   
   I'm curious as to what PGR's you guys use? I'm Bentgrass and recently interviewed for a course out of my region that had the No till "Champions" installed in 2003.

   
   
   
   
10. Baker Daniel

    
    2/9/2012 2:02 PM

    Paul Brandenburg, CGCS said: Thanks for all those replies, guys. I will look into a few of those products that I haven't already used. One other question: are you guys trying to keep a certain N-K ratio (say 1-1 or 1-2)? These last few years I have been [size=150">upwards of 9-10 lbs of N[/size"> with a similar amount of K.

    
    
    Your Champion requires that much N in S Carolina? What is the length of your growing season? Just strikes me as alot of N compared to my TifEagle. Here we are 5# granular and 1# foliar for a 9 month season.

    
    
    
    
11. Robert Crockett

    

    4 posts
    
    2/9/2012 2:02 PM

    Larry Allan said: Not sure how this applies to Champion but it is interesting
    
    
    
    [youtube">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rMM-4XJ5dA[/youtube">

    
    That is the scientific head on the nail!!!! Also "K" is the nutrient that is least foliarly absorbed.

    
    
    
    
12. Andy Scott

    

    0 posts
    
    2/9/2012 5:02 PM

    I'm curious as to what PGR's you guys use? I'm Bentgrass and recently interviewed for a course out of my region that had the No till "Champions" installed in 2003.
    
    
    I used Lesco's Regimax last year, but may try something else this year. Lesco man never comes by so, his loss!
    
    4-5 lbs N for me. I too will try AAT 0-0-50 180 duration.

    
    
    
    
13. Paul Brandenburg

    

    0 posts
    
    2/10/2012 8:02 AM

    Larry, thanks very much for the video. I found that to be very informative. And Daniel, I should have mentioned that last year (2011), I used a good bit less N than the previous 3 years. We were probably closer to 7 pounds of N. The big switch was to a mostly foliar N feeding program (mainly Griggs products). Combined with much more aggressive verticutting our surfaces were pretty good in summer / fall. I have discovered, like many others I am sure, that once the greens mature and develop any layer of mat or biomass, that they don't need that much N. It has been quite a learning process for this turf manager who grew Penncross on push-up greens for 9 years before we re-built. Thanks for all the suggestions!
    
    Paul Brandenburg, CGCS
    Furman University Golf Club
    Greenville, SC