Managing Bermuda UltraDwarf in Shade Cancel The title field is required!

1. Hanief Gooding

   

   0 posts
   
   1/3/2012 11:01 AM

   A happy and rewarding New Year to all. I would like some inputs or advice from those persons who have either experienced growing TifEagle in shaded, overcast and wet conditions. I am currently faced with these conditions on my golf course and have already made some adjustments to the cultural practices for one specific green. The area is constantly wet, algae is thriving, perimeter is weak and thin and black layer is developing in isolated spots. I anxiously look foward to your responses.

   
   
   
   
2. Andy Jorgensen

   

   1 posts
   
   1/3/2012 11:01 AM

   In all instances, unless you get rid of the shade, the green will continue to fail. If this is not an option, a grow light might be in your future.

   
   
   
   
3. Stuart Rowland

   

   0 posts
   
   1/3/2012 12:01 PM

   Yep, grow light might be the option if you can't get rid of the tree. Also a great trick to getting rid of the wet/algae on the perimeter is to use Profile. There is even a green one (Profile Emerald greens greens grade). It does definitely help keep those areas a bit drier to alleviate the algae issue.

   
   
   
   
4. Smith Kerry L

   
   1/3/2012 1:01 PM

   There is only one way to have healthy bermuda in the shade. Remove the shade! It took 10 years and the right GM and Greens chair in place to convince them here of that. Also a visit from USGA helped a whole lot. Be careful to remove the right trees if you get the chance. The asmuth of the sun changes and so will the amount and length of shade.

   
   
   
   
5. Keith Lamb

   

   3 posts
   
   1/3/2012 5:01 PM

   Adage of the experienced superintendent....I can grow grass, I can grow trees, but I can't grow both in the same spot.

   
   
   
   
6. Wahlin Scott B

   
   1/3/2012 5:01 PM

   I have an assistant pro who says he has seen it done, so it can obviously be done. I have no doubt!

   
   
   
   
7. James Smith

   

   112 posts
   
   1/4/2012 6:01 AM

   you can start by trimming trees back (if you cannot remove them). I had a few greens that were being slowly killed off by large water oaks 20'-30' from the greens. My club has a bylaw that prohibits cutting down any 12" oak without approval of the general membeership which votes once per year. After advising them to take out the oaks I was told it not only cannot happen but it will not happen. I asked if the bylaws included trimming these trees and got the answer I had wanted (there is not bylaw that says I cannot trim the tree to my own specifications). You should of seen the faces when I topped an 80' water oak down to 25' and left no foilage on it whatsoever. I told them that the tree will bloom back out but with a smaller head. The whole membership was pleased when the tree did what I had said it would (I never told them that it would shorten the life of the tree), the tree still lived another 10-12 years before a hurricane took it out.
   
   If you are developing a black layer you have a problem. this happend to me on one of my greens and I switched wetting agents to one that helped force water through the soil instead of allowing the soil to retain it. I would look into this.
   
   I to am seeing algea on my TifEagle greens this year but being I am going in and out of dormancy I am leary of spraying them with anything that may damage the tender growth when they are coming back out of dormancy.

   
   
   
   
8. Brett Morris

   

   0 posts
   
   1/4/2012 3:01 PM

   Stuart Rowland said: Also a great trick to getting rid of the wet/algae on the perimeter is to use Profile. There is even a green one (Profile Emerald greens greens grade). It does definitely help keep those areas a bit drier to alleviate the algae issue.

   
   
   Agree 100%. Profile is an excellent product for algae.

   
   
   
   
9. Neidhardt John J

   
   1/5/2012 7:01 AM

   Imprellis might help you with your shade problems.

   
   
   
   
10. Brian Powell

    

    0 posts
    
    1/5/2012 9:01 AM

    Scott Wahlin, CGCS said: I have an assistant pro who says he has seen it done, so it can obviously be done. I have no doubt!

    
    
    
    I know that guy. I bought a bridge from him in Brooklyn.
    
    

    
    
    
    
11. Christopher Boldreghini

    

    0 posts
    
    1/5/2012 10:01 AM

    When I was interviewing for my current job I was taken to our number 11 green and was told that I wouldn't ever be able to get the left side of the green to fill in. We went through the first season and the left side didn't fill in. That winter I took down a 100 year old oak behind the green and have had grass on the left side since then. Tree or green? Depends what the like to putt on better.
    
    Charlie Boldreghini

    
    
    
    
12. Baker Daniel

    
    1/5/2012 11:01 AM

    What's your location? Are you really growing grass at this time of year or are you managing leaf canopy on the verge of dormancy? I have several greens surrounded by live oak with some s close as 6 feet from the green and have learned how to keep the existing canopy for most of the winter.
    
    Knowing your climate would be really helpful. Feel free to email or call me. I'm in the directory

    
    
    
    
13. Christopher Boldreghini

    

    0 posts
    
    1/5/2012 1:01 PM

    No my greens are mostly dormant right now. I was talking about that green not filling in during the growing season. I am located in SEMO.
    
    Charlie Boldreghini

    
    
    
    
14. Christopher Boldreghini

    

    0 posts
    
    1/5/2012 1:01 PM

    My Mistake Daniel. I thought you had quoted my post above yours.
    
    Charlie Boldreghini