Hours of sunlight for ultradwarfs Cancel The title field is required!

1. James DeReuil

   

   0 posts
   
   11/9/2014 8:11 AM

   I'm curious to know what sunlight duration guidelines guys have been using to determine tree removal when planting ultradwarfs.
   
   The USGA guidelines for summer make sense, which is maximizing the light in the summer at >8 hrs with at least 4 hrs of that coming between 11 am and 3 pm.
   
   What are the minimum hours you shoot for in the transition months, say March to October.
   What are the minimu hours you shoot for in the December and January?
   
   This site is in Alabama, elevation 230, at same rough latitude as Jackson MS, Macon GA, and Charleston SC
   
   Thanks for any replies.

   
   
   
   
2. Anthony Nysse

   

   1 posts
   
   11/9/2014 8:11 AM

   5hours is the number I've always went by. We don't see much positive under 5

   
   
   
   
3. James DeReuil

   

   0 posts
   
   11/9/2014 11:11 AM

   Thank you Anthony.

   
   
   
   
4. Joey Franco

   

   0 posts
   
   11/9/2014 1:11 PM

   Based on my experience, 6 or 7 hours is the best during the winter. This is very dependent on weather patterns. In Atlanta we experience the cold wedge from the mountains very frequently. This wedge provides many cloudy days and potential for disease without the proper fungicide program. We are constantly trimming and removing based on any potential conditions that would not provide enough sunlight. My course is surrounded by homes, so there is some definite negotiating with homeowners. If done right in the beginning, you could definitely supply enough sunlight. A great app is Sunseeker. This app can tell you the potential sunlight throughout the year. Dealing with the ultradwarfs, I have seen mini verde do better than champion with shade. TifEagle needs as much sunlight as possible, but Tifeagle does provide the best pure surface. Good Luck.

   
   
   
   
5. James DeReuil

   

   0 posts
   
   11/10/2014 9:11 AM

   Thank you Joey.

   
   
   
   
6. James Smith

   

   112 posts
   
   11/11/2014 12:11 PM

   Another thing you may want to look at if your objective is to remove trees for the betterment of your greens is if you have any that shade your greens first thing in the morning when you are waiting for the frost to thaw out. For some reason an idiot planted a live oak tree right next to my #1 green on the east side. when it gets too cold to use my water from my ponds (there so shallow it does not take long to lower their temperatures) to thaw out the frost we have to wait almost an extra hour before the golfers can use the hole. While I have some that will just go to #2 because it thaws out faster without trees #1 has to stay closed. one year they may let me take it out.

   
   
   
   
7. Heath Puckett

   

   0 posts
   
   11/12/2014 10:11 AM

   Prior to our conversion, my approach to tree removal was focused on winter shade and the lower soil temperatures as a result of that shade. Since winter performance is crucial to the success of ultradwarf putting surfaces in the transition zone, maximizing sunlight as much as possible during the low light periods to help warm the soil, thereby protecting the turf during its most vulnerable state, seemed like a no-brainer to me. Our goal was a minimum of 4 hours unfiltered light during the winter. My thought was if we took care of any winter shade issues, it wouldn't be a factor during the rest of the year since the sun is higher in the sky. And like James mentioned, any trees on the southeast side of the greens should be serious candidates for removal.
   
   I also highly recommend the Sunseeker app to identify problem trees...great tool!

   
   
   
   
8. James DeReuil

   

   0 posts
   
   11/15/2014 5:11 PM

   Thanks James and Heath!