6/12/2012 9:06 AM
As brought up, the full and part circle heads is a great point. I'll go even further.
I remember taking a salt affected turf class at one of the GIS shows some years back. Afterwards, I talked with the instructor regarding a "proper flush". We talked about the rootzone I have, slope of green, irrigation heads, etc, etc. All important. What we came up with to properly flush was to first open them up as mentioned before. Solid tine bayonets are wonderful in my mind for this. Next was to apply a penetrant (I've used pervade among others, the pervade is great). Rather than watering with overheads though, he and i came up with the though of hooking in a few impacts around the green surface late in the evening, and basically let them run slowly all night to not have the water run off, but continue to perc. This is in a perfect world scenario obviously and would require someone to at least be present for most of the process.
I don't have the staff to work in Utopia. We do the solid tine, apply several elements in a spray, and then run heads back to back nights for at a minimum of 60 mins per head. Alot of the time, switching full circle to parts to not wash out bunkers and not flood the poor draining surrounds. If our inaccurate weather men are predicting a slow accumulating rain, I really try to do it then because as mentioned, ole' ma nature gives you the best water. And I still believe low volume input for a longer duration moves water better than a high volume flooding.
Follow up with a good ole fashion gypsum and fertility app and good to go. My opinion obviously.