Aerifying holes won't heal. Cancel The title field is required!

1. Ryan Leach

   

   6 posts
   
   9/30/2014 12:09 PM

   We aerified greens on September 7th. I put .27 lbs/# nitrogen on the 4th. On September 18 I applied another .27 lbs/# N. A mix of granular and liquid. I also applied 6.2" of water since then to the day today. I have rolled, mowed, and rolled some more. The holes were completely filled in with topdressing sand and less and 1% were open or had no sand. The holes are about 85% grown in but the pro is not pleased. I have assured him that I have done everything culturally and chemically that I can. I am dumping baskets every green and cutting at .125". We are located in zone 5b in Ohio. We have had below normal night time lows. I think the cool weather is a culprit however, we are dumping like it's spring. I am really at a loss for why these things are not coming in. Anybody have any suggestions?

   
   
   
   
2. Smith Tim

   
   9/30/2014 1:09 PM

   What size holes did you punch?

   
   
   
   
3. Steven Huffstutler

   

   11 posts
   
   9/30/2014 2:09 PM

   Tell the pro to settle down and it all get better. And anyway who gives a rats ass what the pro thinks?

   
   
   
   
4. Smith Kerry L

   
   9/30/2014 4:09 PM

   I concur with Steven. No cut worm issues? Just first thought.

   
   
   
   
5. Timothy Walker

   

   0 posts
   
   9/30/2014 7:09 PM

   Give them a shot of ammonium sulfate granular at .5#n/1000 or spray 46-0-0 melted down at .3#n/1000
   
   I target 1#n/1000 when aerifying

   
   
   
   
6. Ryan Leach

   

   6 posts
   
   10/1/2014 4:10 AM

   -They were 5/8" holes.
   -The pro is over me and that is why it is a big deal.
   -No cut worm issues or disease

   
   
   
   
7. James Smith

   

   112 posts
   
   10/1/2014 6:10 AM

   Have you used and growth regulators before or during your aerification?
   
   I had a similur issue when we did our first aerification in the summer this year. It took me 4 weeks to heal over. The only thing I could blame it on was the growth regulator. everything else I had done from past coring practices with great sucess (I generally use Primo the week before also). As it was I pulled soil samples during the first aerification so when I did my second aerification I added a little lime and gypsum because my ph had dropped to around 6 and my calcium rates could use a boost. My second aerification went much better then expected without any hitches but I also did not use the primo until after they were grown in.
   
   I am not a northerner so I cannot help you with your turf but if you have not pulled samples in a while you may want to try it now. Sometimes it is the small things that we tend to overlook when they may be telling us something.

   
   
   
   
8. Steve Nelson

   

   0 posts
   
   10/1/2014 10:10 AM

   Well if you are dumping that much grass then growth isn't the problem. Having said that I would keep them pumped up since you need the holes to fill in. You might want to topdress lightly until any depressions from the ungrown in holes stop causing surface bumpiness. I'm going to theorize that the 5/8 holes coupled with cool temps is the 'core' of the issue (sorry for the pun). Maybe next time go 1/2 inch or even smaller and punch closer together either by slowing down or utilizing a different head.

   
   
   
   
9. Aaron Wells

   

   0 posts
   
   10/4/2014 5:10 AM

   I would keep applying whatever growth regulator you're currently using. We usually apply a heavier rate of a Primo/ Cutless mix before we aerify to prevent excessive top growth and encourage the desired lateral growth. It sounds like there's plenty on N on them already. Just the act of aerifying and opening up the soil will release some nitrogen just from the soil microbes becoming more active. We can usually wait 6-7 days before our first mow after we aerify which allows the sand to work it's way into the canopy. Good Luck.

   
   
   
   
10. Patrick Quinlan

    

    0 posts
    
    10/4/2014 6:10 AM

    I aerify with 5/8 tines at 1.5 by 1.5 spacing which is 13% percent of the surface. I apply .3lb of N from a granular 7 days before punching and then .10 each week after. I stay on a growth regulator program and we hold off mowing for 5 days after punching. It takes 4 weeks for the greens to heal both in April and September in Northern New Jersey. I have used ISTRC testing and their reports to convey to the membership why we are doing what we are doing and warn them how long it will take to heal. The greens perform great during the season and the membership has bought in to our process.

    
    
    
    
11. Matt Henkel

    

    0 posts
    
    10/6/2014 9:10 AM

    Ryan,
    
    Unless your greens absolutely need the bigger holes, given your course setup and who you report to, I would make the switch to the smaller tines and be done with it. Your process sounds acceptable to me, especially for a course that has a groundskeeper taking care of the course . That is not a shot at you, as you are the Superintendent and know what you are talking about. Taking a look at your course's website, I see that they recognize you as the groundskeeper on there as well. As a groundskeeper, I think you are doing a remarkable job! One question I do have.....who is the picture of on the home page, I am assuming it is probably not you?
    
    Matt Henkel, GCS
    PrairieView Golf Club
    Byron, IL

    
    
    
    
12. Ryan Leach

    

    6 posts
    
    10/9/2014 9:10 AM

    I just started in 2012 and I love the course side of it for sure. The other stuff not so much.
    No Matt, that picture is of the pro. Thank you for all your comments and I have decided that it is what is and if the holes need to be filled in, we need to aerify earlier. This year got colder sooner and they will heal the best nature will let them given I do everything I can. Thank you all again

    
    
    
    
13. Casavant Gerry

    
    10/10/2014 2:10 PM

    Hey man, .. We're ALL Groundskeepers ..... some of us just go by a multitude of other names .. some a little more presumptious than others.
    ... and tell your "Pro" two things:
    1. WE are also Golf Professionals, .. just dealing with a different (and many believe more crucial) division of the industry.
    2. "The only thing that happens fast in agronomy is Failure" .... old saying, not sure of source.
    
    Gerry Casavant
    Head Greenkeeper
    Prince Rupert Centennial Golf Course
    Prince Rupert, B.C.
    Canada
    Earth

    
    
    
    
14. James Smith

    

    112 posts
    
    10/11/2014 7:10 AM

    Ryan, from my experience, the only advice I can give you is to document everything you have done in its own folder for use at a later time. I have an aerification folder where I can dump notes and pictures for every aerification I do. I date each one and it would be a great idea to add all weather related items as well as any outside factors into each folder. I would also include your cultural program for the previous two weeks.
    Past notes come in real handy when troubleshooting todays problems! Every course is different! Since you report to the Pro it is important that you include him in on your conclusions. I say this not because he is your boss but because it shows him you are orginized and tracking everything. I do not know your past history as a groundskeeper and at this point all that is important is what you do for me today! We all have a learning curve but the trick is not to make the same mistake twice and to show that you are capable of your position. By tracking things it helps and shows your management that you are on top of it.
    
    The issue I had with my first aerification this year healing slower then in the past led me to pull soil samples just to make sure an issue was not creeping up on me. What it showed was minor issues that needed to be corrected at some point. I chose to correct them during our next aerification which may have been part of my thatch issue that popped up in the last month. I have the complete trust of my Board members after 20 years of service but it is mainly due to all of the records and notes I keep which I can forward them at any time. Keeping these records shows them that I stay on top of my position. Heck I even send them evaluations I do on myself for tournaments, course conditions and a end of year evaluation. I am a lot tougher on myself and my performance then they are as they are always telling me to not be so hard on myself. I feel that by doing these things they leave me alone knowing there is not much they can tell me then I already tell myself. That may sound unusual to some Superintendents but I have never been evaluated by my board in my 20 years of service to them.
    
    Back to notes. These will be your best tool as it becomes easy to forget things as time goes by. When you make changes to your program you will be able to document the results to compare at a later time.
    
    As for the slow filling in issue. I would look at the two weeks before you aerified and what you had done then (chemical applications, growth regulators and so on) (did you know that some fungicides actually stop the growth of the plant?) time will fill in your current issue but now is the time to start working on what changes you may want to apply for the next aerification process (maybe make a point to change the chemicals you use before your aerification, to compare with your last). Be sure to meet with your Pro and inform him of what changes you may need to make on the next process. By showing him you are now working towards the next process and what changes may be needed, you will gain a little more trust and respect.
    
    I use 5/8" tines for every aerification. Since I have an ultra dwarf (tifeagle) I need to remove as much of the thatch layer (organics) as possible on every aerification. I found that the 3/4"-1" tines takes too long to heal over and the 3/8"-1/2" does not pull enough material (the smaller ones will not even eject a plug). So I cannot go with any smaller holes for my greens. I have to manipulate the dates when colder weather moves in when we are expected to pull cores. Do you need to pull cores or can a solid tine accomplish the same thing? While I schedule 4 aerifications from spring to fall I generally only get 2-3 of them done due to weather issues. Because of this I tend to do a check of the thatch/organic layer 2-3 weeks prior to aerification in early spring and late fall. If I see that the layer is smaller then normal I can put off pulling cores and just solid tine. I guess my point is that while we may want and know that we need to pull cores, it is not written in stone. Like mother nature changes what we do from day to day she can also change what we do from year to year. all we need to do is look closely and make a decision on what we see.
    
    Good Luck and P.S.unless you really like being called a GroundsKeeper I would change the titel. That is what I call everyone that works for me. It is a general term in my mind. If you are not a Superintendent yet (and I do not know why you wouldn't be) maybe use director of grounds and greens or even an agrostoligist. As Managers of our course we are a lot more then just a Groundskeeper and you have earned a better title just by getting where you are at!

    
    
    
    
15. Melvin Waldron

    

    43 posts
    
    10/13/2014 9:10 AM

    James,
    
    Some great ideas. I know I can go back in my application logs, weather charts and some of my notes, but I never thought about taking some pictures on a regular basis, and then actually putting everything together. Actual visual evidence would be very helpful when questions arise. I know having pictures of soil profile is done regularly by some. I have just taken a couple of pictures of aeration healing to tweet out.
    
    Thanks again!
    
    Mel

    
    Melvin H. Waldron III, CGCS, Horton Smith Golf Course, City of Springfield/Greene County MO
    
    
16. Daniel Jurgens

    

    2 posts
    
    10/13/2014 12:10 PM

    I've always found a verticutting week to 10 days after a big punch helps even Things out again, We try to do it dry, no baskets, and blow greens With a pull behind before cutting or double cutting. Then give them some water and a roll. Sounds like you have enough nutrition. I'm in a cool climate and have experienced exactly what you are refering too!
    Dan, Kragero, Norway

    
    
    
    
17. James Smith

    

    112 posts
    
    10/14/2014 7:10 AM

    Thanks Melvin, I have been finding that when we do finally hit the colder months and slow down a little I can get on my computer and build folders for just about everything. I also find that when you do get the time to just go ahead and build a couple of years worth of folders for the following years placing them into a main folder like greens aerifications would hold 2010 greens aerifications, 2011 aerifications and so on. For during the year when we are busier I make a single folder for that year like 2015 files or 2015 pictures. You can build your own filing system that works for you is the main part.
    you would be amazed at the different folders you can collect! I use them for just about everything like equipment web sites which basically holds links to different online vendors I come across or like pesticide lables I access on the internet.
    The only limit to doing things this way is your imagination.

    
    
    
    
18. Michael Kuhn

    

    0 posts
    
    10/14/2014 8:10 AM

    Ryan,
    I would not change the size of the tines. Thatch removal and gas exchange is vital to long term health. The weather probably hit you a little bit as here in VA we have been on the cooler side. I have read a few replies warning about PGR applications around your aerification time. I actually find PGRs to help with aerification. With higher fertility, you will see much more vertical growth as evidenced with you dumping baskets every green. With a PGR (I prefer Primo), vertical growth will be slowed, allowing more lateral growth to fill in those holes while also providing a smoother ball roll. Do you think it is possible the pro is complaining about how the ball will hop between quickly growing turf and the unfilled holes? I feel the PGR will help with the ball roll and keep your pro a little happier. Also, and I don't know your budget, but there are a few fungicides that will speed healing. Honor, Insignia, Lexicon. They are pricey but give 28 days of control over most all of the disease spectrum. They have worked for me.

    
    
    
    
19. Randle Robinson

    

    0 posts
    
    10/20/2014 12:10 PM

    Ryan M Leach said: We aerified greens on September 7th. I put .27 lbs/# nitrogen on the 4th. On September 18 I applied another .27 lbs/# N. A mix of granular and liquid. I also applied 6.2" of water since then to the day today. I have rolled, mowed, and rolled some more. The holes were completely filled in with topdressing sand and less and 1% were open or had no sand. The holes are about 85% grown in but the pro is not pleased. I have assured him that I have done everything culturally and chemically that I can. I am dumping baskets every green and cutting at .125". We are located in zone 5b in Ohio. We have had below normal night time lows. I think the cool weather is a culprit however, we are dumping like it's spring. I am really at a loss for why these things are not coming in. Anybody have any suggestions?

    
    
    Ryan,
    We had similar issues and had better results after we stopped primo applications around aerification. Our process was. We aerified 1/2" times, then double verticutt, top-dressed lightly and were healed in 7 days, .6# N (Contec DG 17-0-17) the day after. We didn't mow for 3-4 days and just rolled the greens on the off days. The verticutting helps close the holes and promote growth. The fertilizer kicks in almost next day. In the past, we have done another light topdressing the next day if needed. It works here in Iowa, hope you have success, and get the professional shirt folder off your back.