Shop floor Cancel The title field is required!

1. Tony Feheregyhazi

   

   7 posts
   
   3/2/2013 8:03 AM

   Need to repaint shop floor. Any tips and type of paint would be much appreciated.

   
   
   
   
2. Andy Jorgensen

   

   1 posts
   
   3/2/2013 9:03 AM

   How much you want to spend??
   
   A good floor paint from Lowes or Home Depot will clean things up, but may only gIve you a few years. Relatively cheap at about $20/gal.
   
   Rust oleum has several different systems of two part epoxies that will give you many, many years. These are more money, around the $100/gal range.
   
   Call a paint stood like Sherwin-Williams. They can get you going in the right direction.
   
   Whatever you do though, preparation is key. A good acid etching and scrub of the existing floor will provide the best results. Follow up after painting with a few coats of a sealer to provide that durability and shine.
   
   [img">http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/andyjorg/IMG_1098.jpg[/img">

   
   
   
   
3. Dinger Greg

   
   3/2/2013 11:03 AM

   Tony,
   
   I rep a lubricant company on the side that also has a "Building Products" division, and while I'm not a rep for the "BP" side, I have a wonderful relationship with the GM of the division, and have had one of their floors in my shop since 2007, that has proven nuke-proof. I love it and cant say enough good about it. As with any paint job, its all about the prep. The finished floor will be a direct result of the prep put into it, hands down.
   
   Call anytime and Ill share my experience and put you in contact with the right guy if needed.
   
   970-903-2296 gregdinger@msn.com

   
   
   
   
4. Hector Velazquez

   

   0 posts
   
   3/2/2013 3:03 PM

   If you visit my website in the videos my very first video was titled "Shop Transformation" it deals with preping and the paint I used to paint the shop floor. Prep is KEY.

   
   
   
   
5. Henry Heinz

   

   0 posts
   
   3/2/2013 5:03 PM

   I have done many shop floors, and each time I have tried to find something better than the last. During my time in the North East, I found Armor-seal Industrial from Sherwin Williams. The first time was the paint then add the polyurethane coating over the top. While in Florida, and now in South Carolina, I've found the same product but already tinted and in a one step process. It's a 2 to 1 mix, high solids, Haze Gray color, Polyurethane coating. This is the closest product I have ever used that resembles a professional company coming in and doing it. It's a little more expensive but its going to give many years of good service, and its easy to clean, keeps a good shine, and meets the anti-slip requirements without the shark-grip additive. My good friend is in the shop I did back in Philly and is working on it's fourth year of the same coating and still looks great. As others have said, the prep work is key, but we drop wrenches from the lift and do not chip the floor. If it chips, it's taking concrete with it.
   
   Regards,

   
   
   
   
6. Peter Bowman

   

   11 posts
   
   3/2/2013 9:03 PM

   Hector L Velazquez said: If you visit my website in the videos my very first video was titled "Shop Transformation" it deals with peeping........

   
   
   Whoa now Hector!
   
   Videos dealing with peeping? That could get you kicked off this Forum.

   
   
   
   
7. Hector Velazquez

   

   0 posts
   
   3/2/2013 10:03 PM

   Peter Bowman, CGCS said:

   Hector L Velazquez said: If you visit my website in the videos my very first video was titled "Shop Transformation" it deals with peeping........

   
   
   Whoa now Hector!
   
   Videos dealing with peeping? That could get you kicked off this Forum.

   
   
   
   Now, thats funny right there! Fixed it, and these phones are suppose to be smart..Psshhh

   
   
   
   
8. Michael Vogt

   

   2 posts
   
   3/4/2013 8:03 AM

   I am with Henry on Sherwin Williams.

   
   
   
   
9. Dinger Greg

   
   3/4/2013 9:03 PM

   Greg Dinger said: Tony,
   
   I rep a lubricant company on the side that also has a "Building Products" division, and while I'm not a rep for the "BP" side, I have a wonderful relationship with the GM of the division, and have had one of their floors in my shop since 2007, that has proven nuke-proof. I love it and cant say enough good about it. As with any paint job, its all about the prep. The finished floor will be a direct result of the prep put into it, hands down.
   
   Call anytime and Ill share my experience and put you in contact with the right guy if needed.
   
   970-903-2296 gregdinger@msn.com

   
   
   http://swepcousa.com/bpsite/bppdf/J11808_ugecSB.pdf
   
   This was the one we used, in light gray. One thing I always look at it the solids content, and VOC of the product. Zero voc means there is no solvent to evaporate. They are 100% solids and they don't "dry" through evaporation, instead they cure to harden. In other words, zero voc and 100% solids means when a gallon of product is put down, when everything is done, a gallon of material remain on the surface. Just suggesting to be aware of that with whatever product you choose, and pics are expected of the finished product, or it never happened!

   
   
   
   
10. Tony Feheregyhazi

    

    7 posts
    
    3/6/2013 6:03 PM

    Thanks for the tips guys. Greg do you know if any of the Swepco products are available in Canada?

    
    
    
    
11. Dinger Greg

    
    3/6/2013 9:03 PM

    Tony, there is a plant in Canada, but I'm not sure of their offerings.
    
    Ill email you, through here, Mikes contact info, and he can point you toward the right direction. He is a Quality Human and I have no reservation about his ability to help you.

    
    
    
    
12. James Smith

    

    112 posts
    
    7/31/2015 1:07 PM

    I have just been instructed to look into concrete coatings for our kitchen area. I remembered this thread from a few years ago and thought I would bump it. We currently have a plain concrete floor that needs either a new slip proof tile floor or a slip proof painted coating. Is there any new recent news on floor coatings that you may be able to tell me about.
    
    Personally I think the tile floor is the way to go but to be honest I do not look forward to climbing around on my knees to install one. we may try to make a swap for golf if we can find an installer if not I know it will fall back on me since funds are pretty low right now. I have no problem prepping and painting the floor if that is the way we go since it would only take 1-2 days total.

    
    
    
    
13. Keith Pegg

    

    0 posts
    
    8/1/2015 3:08 PM

    James,
    
    I have just grey concrete and it is the best I have ever had, after 40 years + of fighting paint and all kinds of covering, some very pricey concrete is the way to go. In the heavy traffic areas I have some shop runners like you would find in a kitchen and we have done a few painted lines that with a good paint remover come right up. Does it stain, yes does it make up a little, yes but who cares it's just concrete. My shop is now about 14 years old and looks great and the floor is the best.
    Just a view from the other side.
    Keith

    
    
    
    
14. Stephen Tucker

    

    0 posts
    
    8/5/2015 8:08 AM

    I am with Skip on Sherwin Williams as well. Paint holds up really well, glossy, the picture below is after 6 months. Prep is key we had a contractor come in and diamond grind the floor. Typically after the first year I will recoat and then again every 5 years or so.
    
    Floor Picture - http://www.stephentucker.net/wp-content ... G_1758.jpg

    
    
    
    
15. Melvin Waldron

    

    43 posts
    
    8/24/2015 8:08 AM

    Stephen Tucker said: I am with Skip on Sherwin Williams as well. Paint holds up really well, glossy, the picture below is after 6 months. Prep is key we had a contractor come in and diamond grind the floor. Typically after the first year I will recoat and then again every 5 years or so.
    
    Floor Picture - http://www.stephentucker.net/wp-content ... G_1758.jpg

    
    
    Stephen,
    
    Do you recoat after the first and then 5th year or are you repainting every 5 years? If repainting do you redo all your floor prep like etch and diamond grind?
    
    We installed the garage floor paint by Rustoleum from the big box stores about 4 or 5 years ago. it has held up well, but would like to touch it up or redo it. I'm wondering if I could get by with a touch up, and should I follow similar prep?
    
    Thanks!
    
    Mel

    
    Melvin H. Waldron III, CGCS, Horton Smith Golf Course, City of Springfield/Greene County MO
    
    
16. Henry Heinz

    

    0 posts
    
    8/24/2015 9:08 AM

    Mel, you will want to continue with the same type of product you started with. If going with a polyurethane coating, you would want to do a small test area. You always need to degrease the floor first, when dry, sand the entire surface with 36 grit to scuff it up good so the new product bonds well and properly to the existing surface. Blow out dust and damp mop with clean mop and water. No need to grind down to the concrete unless you have a good amount of buildup and need to get things smooth, or starting over with a floor you know nothing about. We are on our third year, we will lightly sand and re-coat in another year or so. I think Stephen does his first coat the first year and the second the following and gets a good 3 to 5 years out of it. We do ours, and I recommend it, two coats in two days. There is a re-coat time-limit without needing to sand, so we go the width of the shop first day with a good heavy coat, then the next day length of the shop with a second coat. We let it sit for a day, two if time allows and move back in.
    
    Regards,

    
    
    
    
17. Andy Jorgensen

    

    1 posts
    
    8/24/2015 4:08 PM

    Henry Heinz said: You always need to degrease the floor first, when dry, sand the entire surface with 36 grit to scuff it up good so the new product bonds well and properly to the existing surface.
    
    Regards,

    
    
    Skip,
    
    I only have 37 grit available to me. Would this work?
    
    Sorry....couldn't resist!

    
    
    
    
18. Henry Heinz

    

    0 posts
    
    8/25/2015 6:08 AM

    It might be ok, Andy. I think if you can get 37.5 you may be better off. lol

    
    
    
    
19. Melvin Waldron

    

    43 posts
    
    8/25/2015 11:08 AM

    Henry Heinz said: Mel, you will want to continue with the same type of product you started with. If going with a polyurethane coating, you would want to do a small test area. You always need to degrease the floor first, when dry, sand the entire surface with 36 grit to scuff it up good so the new product bonds well and properly to the existing surface. Blow out dust and damp mop with clean mop and water. No need to grind down to the concrete unless you have a good amount of buildup and need to get things smooth, or starting over with a floor you know nothing about. We are on our third year, we will lightly sand and re-coat in another year or so. I think Stephen does his first coat the first year and the second the following and gets a good 3 to 5 years out of it. We do ours, and I recommend it, two coats in two days. There is a re-coat time-limit without needing to sand, so we go the width of the shop first day with a good heavy coat, then the next day length of the shop with a second coat. We let it sit for a day, two if time allows and move back in.
    
    Regards,

    
    
    Thanks!
    
    Mel

    
    Melvin H. Waldron III, CGCS, Horton Smith Golf Course, City of Springfield/Greene County MO
    
    
20. Stephen Tucker

    

    0 posts
    
    8/26/2015 2:08 PM

    Mel,
    We ground the floor just due to there being a montage of paint under it and when spending the money I want to make sure it doesn't peal up. We do 2 coats on first application and then a year later 1 more. Same recommendation as Skip but we use 38 grit
    
    ST