Toro hydraulic manifold 112-0289 cracked Cancel The title field is required!

1. Sean Donnelly

   

   8 posts
   
   5/2/2019 9:05 AM

   Greetings, hope someone can help me out here. I have a Toro Greensmaster 3150 model #04357-28000xxxx with 3111 hrs. Yesterday during inspection I noticed some hydraulic oil on top of the hydraulic manifold assembly part number 112-0289 near the reel speed adjustment. Upon further inspection it looks like a hair line crack in the manifold that has a small leak when running. Unfortunately this is one of the best mowers in our fleet and is used for our greens. The manifold is $2413 from the dealer and at this point in time in the budget we can not do that. Here are a few questions for you all.
   
   1. Has anyone seen a hydraulic manifold crack before?
   2. Can this be fixed? I am assuming the block is made from aluminum? I have a good machine shop near me but the problem with possibly welding a crack is that it may make another section weaker and I do not know how much PSI travels through this block at this point, also how deep is the crack into the manifold? Someone suggested JB weld which I never have had good luck with when exposed to petroleum products. I cant see JB weld lasting long.
   3. Anyone know of a place where I can get a hydraulic manifold, used turf equipment supplier? Do any of you have any old blocks lying around that you are willing to sell? Part number 112-0289
   
   Thanks for any help

   
   
   
   
2. Todd Bishop

   

   1 posts
   
   5/2/2019 11:05 AM

   I have seen this before a couple times with no luck fixing. I can recommend Cutter Equipment in Ohio for used equipment parts, great selection and reasonable $$$. 1-800-596-8873
   Good luck!

   
   
   
   
3. James Smith

   

   112 posts
   
   5/2/2019 1:05 PM

   I have a long shot repair you might want to try. remember this is a long shot and its outside the box.
   
   pull the manifold off and use a drill and drill out the crack. the tap it out and put a plug in it. I don't think you would need to drill all the way into the inside of the manifold just the whole crack. its hard to tell from the photo but maybe its not too long of a crack. drilling will not require much heat, only the drill bits and a tap the size of the bit. you could then use an epoxy to glue the plug into place if its not a very deep hole.
   
   like I said before it would be a long shot dependent on how long the crack is.
   
   Can you give us info on how many other model year 3150's will match.

   
   
   
   
4. Sean Donnelly

   

   8 posts
   
   5/2/2019 1:05 PM

   Thanks for the replies. I contacted Cutter Equipment and they are looking to see if they have a used one for me. Apparently the earlier versions of the 3150 the backlap feature was an option (I have another 3150 without backlap feature) Then around 2009 I believe all came with backlap feature so I assume this same block was used in 3150 that all had the backlap feature. There is a factory number on my hydraulic block on the rear towards bottom right that matches the Toro part number in my parts manual. This was a crack and leak that developed during a 3 hr route. Very small leak but still a leak. I had checked it the day before when I backlapped after topdressing and all was good. What could cause this? Factory defect?
   James, I like thinking outside the box. Good suggestion.
   Todd, have you witnessed cracking on this same block or other machines? What to look out for?

   
   
   
   
5. Todd Bishop

   

   1 posts
   
   5/3/2019 7:05 AM

   I have seen this on a Jacobson LF 3400 and the Toro 3150. Talking to factory reps, the problem originates during the casting/manufacturing process and doesn't show up until after many hours of operation. Both units had in excess of 2000 hours

   
   
   
   
6. Brian Kolar

   

   0 posts
   
   5/9/2019 7:05 AM

   I have never seen one crack, BUT from experience doing road service for a Toro distributor and having them in my current fleet...
   
   These manifolds are notorious for leaking out the speed control o-rings. Have you eliminated this completely as a possibility? Sometimes, it will even partially leak and give a little "spurt" of oil out on top like in your pic. After having six disastrous o-ring failures in a single season across 3 units, I actually removed the manifold and sent it to my friend who is an engineer at a hydraulics mfr for analysis. They found that the machining tolerance was so poor that the speed control valves were actually unscrewing themselves out of the manifold under shock-loading during operation, then an o-ring would blow.
   
   Perhaps give this another look? BTW, my solution was to replace all the o-rings, and then drill/safety wire the valves so they can't unscrew. It's been 2.5 yrs and no o-ring failures.

   
   
   
   
7. Brian Kolar

   

   0 posts
   
   5/9/2019 8:05 AM

   Also, if it is actually cracked, you can try this.
   
   1.Completely clean the manifold of all traces of oil. Try to flush out the fissure many times with acetone.
   2.Heat the part to the touch.
   3.Squeeze some liquid green Loctite (penetrating formula used for small screws) into the crack.
   4.Perhaps repeat heat and Loctite 3 times.
   
   My success rate with this is roughly 50/50, but it's worth a shot.

   
   
   
   
8. Melvin Waldron

   

   43 posts
   
   5/9/2019 9:05 AM

   I have nothing to add, even though I went to Lake City and had the equipment repair classes, I'm nothing more then a parts changer, but I am a good PM scheduler.
   
   I just wanted to comment, if anyone ever questions the value of membership to GCSAA, this thread right here makes paying dues well worth it. I certainly learned something and will hopefully remember this discussion.
   
   Kudos to all of you.
   
   Thanks!
   
   Mel

   
   Melvin H. Waldron III, CGCS, Horton Smith Golf Course, City of Springfield/Greene County MO
   
   
9. Sean Donnelly

   

   8 posts
   
   5/9/2019 11:05 AM

   Once again thanks for all the replies.
   
   Brian that is great info thanks. I actually had a O ring on the reel speed control start leaking on one of our other 3150 about 2 weeks prior so that was my immediate thought. Unfortunatly It is not leaking there. We actually took a video of it pooling at the crack. I can notice the reel speed control "jump" ever so slightly when this circuit is engaged. I have heard of the O rings leaking on the 5410 in that location as well. This O ring replacement will be added to my PM schedule.
   
   The circuit that the leak is in is on the reels engage. A thought that I had to buy time is to disconnect the S1R1 circuit. When the S1R1 is not energized it diverts flow right back to the reservoir, when energized it blocks the return and directs flow through the rest of the manifold mow circuit and out to the reel motors. You can also see in the schematic that S1R1 includes a built in relief valve that functions as the mow circuit relief when it's energized, this is why it's labeled S1 (solenoid #1) R1 (relief #1). Then I will use high heat JB weld to repair the hairline crack until I can find a replacement manifold. This will let me use this mower in my fleet as the dedicated deadweight roller as that does not need reel engage to run. Interesting solution on that green locktite.
   
   I found the manufacturer of my Hydraulic block JEM Technical out of Minnesota. 1-888-256-8266 They made the block but it is proprietary to Toro. Couple interesting things, there are numbers on the block JEM 060906-A. Under that is the Toro part number 112-0289. The first two numbers of the manufacturer was the year the block was made (06). This block was replaced by JEM090072-A, updated in year 2009. My block was manufactured in 06 and used in 07 models (27000xxxx) to current models, the manifold used on ‘02-06 models is different and won't be compatible. Hydraulic blocks with numbers JEM060906-A or JEM090072-A should work in my application. Cutter did not have it so the hunt continues.....
   
   Some of this info have come from the Equipment Guru's at Golftechs
   
   http://golftechs.net/forum/index.php?th ... ked.12542/
   [attachment=0">S1R1.jpg[/attachment">