Leaf Spot and Brown Patch in Tifeagle Cancel The title field is required!

1. Flanagan Darren C

   
   11/7/2012 6:11 PM

   Hello All
   
   I am trying to clean up some leaf spot and Brown Patch in a few greens, we do not have labs down here in Mexico but I have had it before (during the transition in climate) and it seems to be the same. I find that when we are wet after big rains (42 inches in two months) and the temps start to get cooler (but there is still humidity), we get Brown Patch. I have been using Cleary's3336 and Daconil (two apps in 30 days) plus an application of mancozeb (Protect DF) bi-weekly.
   
   I have not been "grooming" the surface or any light v-cutting, just letting them recover with light dusting periodically. I really need to clean up the last of this as it is looking a little thin (in two or three areas in 3 greens)
   
   My next step was to use Rovral to clean up the Brown Patch. Other than these areas the greens are great they just need a dusting.
   
   I have been using foliars weekly and applied one of our three granular applications in October.
   
   Any thoughts from you Tifeagle guys would be appreciated.
   
   Darren

   
   
   
   
2. Larry Stowell

   

   0 posts
   
   11/7/2012 6:11 PM

   The dicarboximides (Iprodione Chipco 260219 and vinclozolin Vorlan or Rovral as you used) will be the best selection for control of leaf spots and they are pretty good on brown patch.

   
   
   
   
3. Flanagan Darren C

   
   11/7/2012 9:11 PM

   Larry
   
   What are your thoughts on time frame between sprays? e.g. i have one green that has Brown Patch pretty bad, 5 day intervals or 7 days? plus if there was a spray of mancozeb in between do you think this would have an adverse effect on the plant?
   
   Except for this year we normally make 5-8 fungicide applications a year. After this rain we got hit pretty hard.
   
   Darren

   
   
   
   
4. Larry Stowell

   

   0 posts
   
   11/8/2012 12:11 AM

   I am guessing that the brown patch is not really brown patch caused by Rhizoctonia solani, but a relative such as brown ring patch that is resistant to thiophanate methyl. The dicarboximide a can be applied on a seven-day interval for a couple of applications and then stretch out the third and fourth applications to 14 days. I don't think that the mancozeb will help or hurt much.

   
   
   
   
5. Baker Daniel

   
   11/8/2012 2:11 PM

   Are you sure its not mini ring? Have you considered putting a good systemic in the mix like Heritage or Honor?

   
   
   
   
6. Flanagan Darren C

   
   11/8/2012 3:11 PM

   Larry
   
   Funny you say that because this looks like solani, but T-mthyl really does nothing to it....... A relative that you don't want (like my uncle). Thank you for your thoughts!
   
   Rovral in the morning
   
   Darren

   
   
   
   
7. Flanagan Darren C

   
   11/8/2012 4:11 PM

   Daniel
   
   What is the active of Honor? I only go by actives , as we cannot import chemicals from the USA; just agriculture products.
   
   Darren

   
   
   
   
8. Flanagan Darren C

   
   11/10/2012 9:11 PM

   Larry
   
   Here is a photo of the patch disease
   
   Darren
   Mexico

   
   
   
   
9. Larry Stowell

   

   0 posts
   
   11/11/2012 10:11 AM

   Darren,
   
   Perfect circles like the one in your photo are not typical for rhizoctonia-incited diseases such as brown patch. I would recommend sending a sample to Kate Entwhistle on the UK for diagnosis. I don't know of any labs in the US that have permits to accept live diagnostic samples. Her address is listed in the link below.
   
   It still could be rhizoctonia, but I would try to treat a few circles with azoxystrobin (Heritage at 0.4 oz/1000 sq ft) for fairy ring and brown patch-like fungi. Treat a few other circles with mefanoxan (Subdue Maxx 1 oz/1000 sq ft) for Pythium species. In 7 days, you should have a better feeling for the fungi you are working with. If you wanted to be more specific for the rhizoctonia and fairy ring group, use flutolanil (Prostar 3 oz/1000 sq ft). Lightly water in the products after application if you are applying in less than 2 gal carrier/1000 sq ft.
   
   An accurate diagnosis is critical. http://www.paceturf.org/index.php/public/turf_diagnostic_labs

   
   
   
   
10. Baker Daniel

    
    11/12/2012 3:11 PM

    Maria at Sports Turf Diagnostics has been around for nearly ten years and does excellent disease work. She gives and initial diagnosis and then cultures what she finds and follows up with you. The mini ring I have had to deal with is difficult because you don't see a lot of symptoms while the disease is active. I have some working right now that did not get preventative applications that looks similar to your photo. What is your soil temperature?
    
    Here's Maria's info if your interested:
    Maria Tomaso-Peterson
    103 Hemlock Drive
    Starkville, MS 39759
    
    You may also try the regional Syngenta rep. Google Bart Fox - he has plenty of experience with it and will recommend products outside of the Syngenta line if they will work better for your particular situation. Honor is manufactured by BASF and is a mix of pyraclostrobin (insignia) and boscalid (emerald).

    
    
    
    
11. Larry Stowell

    

    0 posts
    
    11/13/2012 8:11 AM

    Check with Maria to be sure she can receive a sample from outside the states. I don't think any of the US labs have PPQ 526 permits that cover out of country samples. That is why I recommended Kate. Kate can receive samples from everywhere except the US.

    
    
    
    
12. Canedo Alberto J

    
    11/13/2012 1:11 PM

    I have had similar outbreaks that look like your picture. The best product that I have used is Torque Fungicide. It also helps for many other diseases. The A.I. is Tebuconazole.
    
    Mr. Stowell, what do you think of Torque Fungicide. It has helped my with Yellow patch and fairy ring

    
    
    
    
13. Flanagan Darren C

    
    11/14/2012 1:11 PM

    G'Day All
    
    The temps here have dropped to 75-80 of the day and 60 of a night, whenever we have the transition from summer to fall we get these. The greens are a little more moist, the temps are lower and then it appears. Sometimes we will have large patches (3 -4 ft) but normally these small rings if anything.
    
    In the past three years we have had 3 inches of rain, these last two months we have had 42 inches so things are prone to a little more activity.
    
    I will try some heritage again and do a prostar test also. Keep you posted!
    
    At least it is only a couple of greens, interesting little buggers though.
    
    Darren

    
    
    
    
14. Canedo Alberto J

    
    11/16/2012 11:11 AM

    Darren,
    I have switched from Prostar to Torque Fungicide from Clears last year. It has definitely worked out better for me as I have seen much less disease this year and the fairy ring I always get on my 9th green has been very minimal since switching over to Torque. Plus it will cover many other diseases.

    
    
    
    
15. Frank Siple

    

    0 posts
    
    11/28/2012 12:11 PM

    Darren,
    
    Two of the new Syngenta products might be the ticket. Briskway or Secure, both recently on the market. At $89/A the Secure is going to be a hit. New chemistry also, Fluazinam, the only one in its class right now.
    
    Looking forward,
    
    Frank T Siple, CGCS

    
    
    
    
16. Monte Reed

    

    3 posts
    
    11/30/2012 8:11 AM

    I noticed that in the info for Torque Fungicide it states "limit use on Bermudagrass above 85F". So do you only use it in the winter months and if you overseed your tifeagle does that Torque have an effect on your overseed???

    
    
    
    
17. Canedo Alberto J

    
    11/30/2012 8:11 AM

    Monte,
    I am using Torque Fungicide on Poa/Bent greens throughout the year. We are contaminated with common Bermuda on a lot of our greens and has done nothing to it. I do spray it early in the morning.

    
    
    
    
18. Flanagan Darren C

    
    12/6/2012 7:12 AM

    Well the only disease they found was Curvularia, i still think it has to be fairy ring or mini ring. When I profile it there is no mycelium but it is hydrophobic. I sprayed the affected greens with prostar and wetting agent after venting the green first. Heritage worked ok but it came back quickly, it is just 1 green now our 5th green. Really it is not a total disaster I just really dont like the aesthetics of it.
    
    Appreciate everybody's feedback. Normally we just spray a monthly of mancozeb over the winter and that is it. Other than that prostar bayleton in the spring and a couple of Cleary's 3336 and Heritage in the summer.
    
    Thanks again
    
    Darren

    
    
    
    
19. Larry Stowell

    

    0 posts
    
    12/7/2012 6:12 AM

    Darren,
    
    You may have controlled the fairy ring sufficiently so that mycelium was not produced in the lab for identification. If this is the case, you could still have hydrophobicity without the living fungus. You should see a beneficial response from the wetting agent. If you want to get a quick idea if there is a fairy ring fungus in the thatch/mat or soil, moisten a cup cutter plug and place the plug in a ziplock bag and incubate for 48 hours. If the fairy ring is active you should see some mycelium as illustrated in the image linked below.
    
    Fairy ring mycelium:
    
    http://www.paceturf.org/photo/showphoto.php?photo=145
    
    All PACE Turf fairy ring photos
    
    http://www.paceturf.org/photo/search.php?keywords=fairy%20ring